The Way To Effectively Tackle Your First Big Auto Repair Job Now that you realize how to change oil inside your car, you may decide to undertake
a much bigger auto repair task. Oftentimes, car enthusiasts decide to have a DIY procedure for car repair not just like a hobby, but as a method to save cash. When your car keeps wearing down and you may barely afford the parts to fix it, there's no method for you to pay for professional labor. Before you tackle a huge repair job, have a look at several of the expert advice below! Research First You can't take apart your car or truck and aspire to input it back together again in the event you don't know all of the parts. Unless you will have a unusual vehicle, you can easily get ahold of your aftermarket manual to your model and make. These manuals can be extremely helpful in identifying the parts of your car and how they can be put together. Not to mention, there are simple to follow diagrams that can simplify this process. Aside from a physical manual, look to Internet forums for help. Chances are, somewhere worldwide, someone has now asked the identical questions as you may. If you are stuck or you have a specific problem you can't wrap your face around, post on the forums and ask! Clear Workspace Area Concentrating on a vehicle takes far more space than many people would estimate. You may be thinking your garage has ample room, but you could be in for a rude surprise when you begin the repair. It's advisable to clear lots of space and set up up a workspace without additional clutter to make your job easier. Repair Needs Time It's important to realize that auto repair takes a lot of efforts and perseverance. If the vehicle you want to repair is the only ride to function, create a carpool with a friend or find alternative transportation before you take your car or truck away from commission. Be ready to make a lot of trips to your home improvement center and wait around for your automobile parts in the future in, which can all take time. Keep Organized It's an easy task to take something apart, nevertheless it may become a nightmare to place it back together again again. In case you have lots of nuts, bolts, and washers you're removing from your car, it could seem like an impossible task to not forget how it all goes together. Before you take your vehicle apart, take a photograph of how the parts look when properly installed. Once you've done that, label everything having a white pen while keeping them properly sorted in either plastic baggies or old egg cartons. You may have plenty of enthusiasm for auto repair, but make sure you do your homework first, clear enough workspace, whilst keeping everything properly labeled. Many novice mechanics have discovered that making the effort to produce a checklist will also help come up with a arena of difference! Should you stay organized and go comprehensive, it will be easy to correctly repair the initial car.
Local Time in Bullhead |
Wikipedia Information About Bullhead |
Google Map of Bullhead
Youtube Video's of Bullhead |
Info from Wiki on Auto Diagnostic
FAQ's Auto Repair
Could There Be More Problems With This Ford Bronco Most Popular Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory?
Tomorrow I Am Going To Look At A 1989 Ford Bronco That A Guy Was Advertising On Craigslist. I Called Him And He Told Me That The Only Problems It Has Are A Mistimed Ignition And It Needs A Couple Freeze Plugs Replaced.
Basically I Need To Know If It Could Possibly Have Worse Problems That He Is Trying To Pass Off As These Less Serious Ones. What Should I Look For?
Yes, very well have more problems, with ign off as he claims could use this to hid compression problems and timing chain issues, freeze plugs could hide head gaskets or other things that make it overheat. But he could be shooting straight, most times people selling cars don't. Top Ten Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory
How Do You Figure The Cubic Inches Of My Engine?
Ok I Have A Ford 460 In My 79 Bronco But Its Built Pretty Good And After A Recent Head Gasket Replacement I Checked The Bore And It Turns Out Its Bored 30 Over So What Does That Make My Cubic Inches Top Ten Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory?
that's why the online calculators are so nice..
Volume equals pie times the Radius squared times the stroke times the number of cylinders equals 467 rounded off. Top Ten Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory
that's using 0.030" over
Ford Contour 99, Runs Very Bad. Top Ten Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory?
I Have A Ford Contour 99, I Did Replace The Timing Belt, Idler Pulley, And Timing Adjuster. Now After That It Run A Little Rough, So I Decided To Use For Some Time, Now Is Worse, I Did Re-Set Timing Following Ford Instructions, 1 And 4 Cylinder At Tdc, Cams Aligned With Flat Steel Tool, Cam Sprockets Loose, Timing Belt Tight All The Way Around, Re- Started And Runs Very Bad, Shakes, Misses, All Kinds Of Things. No Smoke At Tailpipe, Then I Checked The Compression, It Was Very Low, Almost Cero.. My Question Is: Can My Timing Be Off To Not Having Any Compression At All≫? Or Could I Have A Burned Valve, Or A Piston/Valve Collision, (Acording To Ford,Is Not An Interference Engine,[2.0 Liter] ) Any Suggestions≫?, I Almost Throwing My Towel, And Don'T Know What Can Be The Problem.. Did Replace Sparks, Coil, Sparks Cables, Checked My Injectors, No Vacuum Leaks, Thank You For Any Good Help.
A stock Zetec is non-interference unless it's a SVT or has been modified (high lift cam). If the timing is way off, then you won't have compression, but it sounds like you are doing it right from what I can gather. However, in some cases non-interference engines can get bent values due to carbon buildup on top of the cylinders, especially in the valve reliefs (reduces valve clearance). There are some rare cases of this occurring with the Zetec.
To test the valves, you can do a leak down test on the cylinders. Basically you shoot compressed air in through the spark plug and see if the pressure in the cylinder drops. In your case, if you have bent valves you should be able to hear a decent "hiss" in the intake or exhaust. You can also try testing the compression with the timing belt off and both valves closed (rotate camshafts). Most Popular Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory
Burnt valves are also a possibility, but you would have noticed this before the belt change. It is also unlikely all four would be burnt and giving zero compression.
Just to be sure, cylinder #1 is the one closest to the timing belt. Also, did you double check your plug wiring? Try to be as precise as possible with TDC in #1, otherwise you could be a tooth or two off.
You said no vacuum leaks, but did you check the EGR, IAC, and MAF? These can all cause roughness.
If all else fails, you can pull the head and see what it looks like inside. Might as well replace the head gasket (order after you see the condition of the valves).
Here is another how to, maybe a different source will help: http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread...
Hope you can figure it out! Most Popular Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory
Car Issues...Blown Head Gasket And Antifreeze Leak Most Popular Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory?
I Have A 1997 Ford Contour Gl With Almost 112Kmi. Last Week When I Was Driving The Car At 55 Mph The Car Started Lurching Forward...Kind Of Like How It Feels When You Just Tap On The Accelerator And It Jumps Forward. I Pulled Over And Turned The Car Off To Check For Leaks And A Flat Tire, Nothing Happened. Went To Turn The Car Back On (Worked) And Started Driving Home...Which Was About Half A Mile. As Soon As I Started Driving (20 Mph) The Front Of The Car Started To Shake Really Bad (Is Not The Alignment), Made Groaning And Whaling Noises, And Would Not Accelerate Above 25 Mph. When I Finally Made It Home I Turned Off The Engine, Went To Call My Mechanic, And He Told Me To Turn It Back On But It Wouldn'T Start. I Have To Wait Two More Days Until I Can Get The Car Looked At But In The Mean Time I Tried To Jump Start The Car To See If It Would Start. It Took About 3 Tries And Then Just Letting The Car Charge From My Moms Car And It Finally Worked. Now The Car'S Exhaust Is Spewing White And The Antifreeze Is Brown/Rusted But Not Too Low. It'S Also Idling Really Rough And Over Heats Within A Minute. I Have Never Missed An Oil Change, So That Isn'T The Issue. I Also Have An Over Heating Issue And My Temp Gauge Isn'T Registering It (I Think That'S Just Broken). I Just Want To Know If Anyone Else Has Had This Issue Or Knows What It Could Be. I'Ve Been Told It May Be A Blow Gasket And An Antifreeze Leak Into The Oil. Wanted Some Opinions Before It Gets Looked At In 2 Days. I'M Trying To Figure Out If It Is Too Bad A Fix And If I Should Just Get A New Car. Please Do Not Answer This If You Have No Intention On Giving Me Advise For What May Be Wrong With The Car.
yes sounds like the head gasket but also could be the intaake manifold gasket and my advise is to buy a new car Best Ten Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory
What Should I Do With My Car 10 Best Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory?
I Asked A Question Not Too Long Ago About My 1997 Ford Aspire With 121K Miles, Which Had A Misfire In One Of Its Cylinders When I Bought It. Now I'Ve Got Several More Questions. Here'S The Story:
I Took It To A Reputable Repair Shop And Had It Diagnosed The Other Day As A Pretty Serious Problem, Which Was Most Likely A Malfunctioning Valve, Though They Would Have To Take Apart The Cylinder Head To Confirm That. They Based Their Evaluation On The Fact That The 3 Healthy Cylinders Were Putting Out 170 Pounds Of Pressure While The Other Was Putting Out 80 Pounds. When I Talked To Other Mechanics They Said They Would Expect A Valve Problem Too With Those Numbers. I Have An Appointment Set For Monday Morning To Get The Cylinder Head Taken Off So That The Mechanics Can Find Out What The Problem Is Exactly.
The Previous Owner Knew For Some Time That The Misfire Existed, But He Assumed That It Was Because Of The Spark Plugs, Which Are Pretty Worn. After I Bought The Car And Drove It Around A Bit, But Before I Took It To The Mechanic, The Check Engine Light Came On And Remained On Until Earlier Today When It Shut Off.
Here Are My Questions:
1) Is There Any Real Chance That The Compression Differentials That The Mechanic Observed Were Caused By Something Simple Like A Spark Plug Malfunction, Which Got Worse During The Time That The Check Engine Light Was On? I Was Planning To Replace My Front Brakes Myself This Weekend Anyway So That It Could Pass The State Inspection. If Changing Out The Plugs And Wires Might Solve The Problem I Might Want To Give It A Try.
2) Is $800 To $1200 A Reasonable Amount To Charge For Rebuilding The Top Half Of An Engine? The Price May Or May Not Include Replacing The Timing Belt, Which I Think Should Be Right In The Area Anyway. The Belt Was Replaced 20,000 Miles Ago, But The Engine Has Been Leaking Oil For A While So There'S A Decent Chance It'S Been Splashed And Weakened.
3) Do Spark Plugs And Wires Normally Get Changed Out In A Rebuild Like This? I Imagine They Would Be Unless The Customer Asked, But I'M No Mechanic.
I Really Appreciate The Time You Guys On This Side Of Yahoo Answers Put In. Thanks For Reading Through My Questions.
When they do a compression check, they remove the spark plugs and check the compression that each piston is putting out. So, the plugs are not installed at the time.
Check around various other places for cost of rebuilding the top half, and also, maybe try another shop to get their diagnosis. I do not know what average cost would be. That price quoted would be about 10 to 14 hours labor, at $85 an hour avg. Plus the cost of gaskets, parts, etc. Top Ten Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory
Spark plugs should probably be changed out for new ones, during a rebuild. Wires, depends on how good they are now. Four good plugs run you about $10 or so. And depending on how old and worn the other parts are, like the water pump, it might be a good idea to replace it, if it is original.
But get a second opinion on repairs, unless it is too costly to do so. I know they charge for these diagnoses. Best Ten Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory
Standard Industrial Classification Code 10 Best Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory?
What Is An Automotive Repair Sic Code?
811111 General Automotive Repair
"This U.S. industry comprises establishments primarily engaged in providing (1) a wide range of mechanical and electrical repair and maintenance services for automotive vehicles, such as passenger cars, trucks, and vans, and all trailers or (2) engine repair and replacement." 10 Best Auto Diagnostic in Bullhead Directory
How Much Would It Cost To Put A Head Gasket Back Together After It Has Been Milled At Machine Shop?
I Had The Head Gasket Taken Off And Sent To The Shop To Get Milled And Now All I Have To Do Is Put It Back Together .
Are you talking about the gasket, or the head itself? I've never heard of any place milling the gasket.
10 Pts For Best Detailed Answer About Headbolts For Toyota Truck!?
Do You Really Have To Have Two Sets Of New Headbolts To Replace The Old Ones When Changing A Blowed Head Gasket In A 1992 V6 3.0 4Wd Half Ton Toyota Truck? I Heard That If You Use The Old Bolts Then It Will Be Weak And Probably Blow Again. Is This True? New Sets Cost 30 Dollars A Peice And Id Like To Save The Money If I Can. Please Explain. Thankyou!
the toyota factory shop manual shows them as non-reusable. they are torque to yield bolts. as stated, they stress and torque settings maybe skewed.
if you have the 3VZE engine with the right exhaust manifold routed over the top of the bell housing, you want to use new ones. the heat on the heads and head gaskets back there are know for failure, do to the heat.
i typically re-use head bolts on other engines. but for this engine, i wouldn't.
if your exhaust doesn't go over the engine/bell housing, you can prolly get away with the old ones. in either case, it's not per manual.
it's your choice.
owner 93 toy pu 3VZE 3.0 V6
My Sister Has A 2000 Toyota Camry Which Is 'Eating' Alot Of Oil, But Not Burning It. Could This Be A?
Head Gasket Problem?
It could be a head gasket problem but that would be unusual. It's more likely a leaking valve stem oil seal that is letting a little oil get into a cylinder, where it is burned. It could also be a leak that drips oil as the car is driven.
Check the spark plugs and see if one has more crud on it than the others. That's a good indication that some oil is being burned. You only see clouds of oil smoke behind a car when the situation is REALLY bad, not when there is minor burning. I had a 1987 Audi that used a quart of oil every 500 miles but never smoked.
Help....My Car Will Turn Over But Will Not Start ?
I Hv A 98 Toyota Camry 4 Cylinder When I Try To Start It Everything Seems Fine But It Will Not Catch To Start. There Is Water, Oil, & It Wasn'T Smoking. I Was Driving & The Car Just Started To Slow Down Even When I Was Flooring The Gas. Now It Wnt Start. What Could Hv Happened? I Really Would Appreciate Some Advice. Thnx.
You need a few things to start the motor- fuel, air, compression and spark at the right time. Take the air filter out and see if it starts. If so, that's easy to fix- a new filter. Fuel is a bit harder to check because your car has fuel injection, right? You can squirt engine starting fluid into the intake manifold (where the air filter goes) and if it starts, then you have a fuel delivery problem. If you pull the spark plugs, you can do a compression test, but this is trickier and you'll need the compression tester. Spark is fairly easy to check- with the spark plugs out, put the number one plug on the wire, then hold it with a stick against the head. (Be careful because you don't want to be in the circuit of a few thousand volts.) If you see spark, that's good. If not, then you heed to check your ignition system.
With a gradual loss of power leading to not starting, it could be several things- your fuel delivery system could have failed, your ignition system could have gone down, slowly, or your air intake got closed gradually. Hard to say what your problem really is. Your local library will have a reference section with a Hayne's or Chilton's manual. Read the troubleshooting chapter and see what matches your symptoms. Best of luck !!!
I Have A 1996 Full Size Ford Bronco With A 5.8 Liter Windsor Engine And I Want To Supercharge It?
I'Ve Been Doing A Lot Of Research On Superchargers But I Don'T Know Enough About Them To Make The Correct Choice. I Want Something Used Thats Nice Not Beaten Up, Maybe Even Something New But Not To Expensive.
Buying a used supercharger comes with risk. You may save some money if it's in good working condition but you won't know that until you bolt it on, start the engine, and then drive it. It could have a bad bearing, the compressor parts could be worn, or you might need a new belt. You won't even know if it's 100% right for your application unless the owner can prove it or if you contact the manufacturer. You'd have to make sure you get every piece that came with it or you'd have to pay a premium to get those parts separately from the manufacturer. You can repair or rebuild any worn compressor since the manufacturer will make service parts for them.
However, having said that you may have no choice but to buy a used supercharger if you want a bolt on kit without having to modify or customize anything since I don't think anyone makes a kit for your application anymore if they even ever did. Vortech and Kenne Bell used to make kits for the 1987-96 F-150/Bronco 5.0L but no longer produce them.
All supercharger kits are expensive. The size of the compressor and the amount of boost it can produce is really the deciding factor of the price. A larger compressor will be able to produce more boost with less effort, RPM, and wear and tear on it. The more boost you run the harder it is on the engine and the more risk you take blowing head gaskets or doing other more catastrophic damage. If the engine has 100000 miles or more you'll probably wind up doing something to it eventually due to the supercharger but you never really know how long the engine will go for before a problem occurs.
If you run 5 lbs of boost(generally the minimum) with a centrifugal type supercharger like the Vortech you might get about a 75 hp and 75 ft lbs of torque increase on your engine. This will be very noticeable and the safest and easiest way to do it. There's also a roots type supercharger like the Kenne Bell but the deck of the 5.8L is higher than that of the 5.0L so they won't be compatible.
My suggestion is go onto any Ford truck forum and see what they say about putting a kit on a Bronco. People will talk about what they done to make it work with a 5.8L and you can even post a question if you join. Here's an example of a forum where they talk a little about a 5.0L supercharger: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/185134...
A Question For A Mechanic Or Mechanically Inclined?
My Car A 95 Toyota 4Runner Has Been Running Rough At Start Up And Then After A Few Minutes It Would Mellow Out, Also The Gas Mileage Using Twice As Much Gas, Two Months Ago I Get A Major Tune-Up Costing $480.00 The Roughness Stopped For About A Month Then Slowly Started Again. Then Last Week I Drove And Noticed Some White Smoke From The Tailpipe. Next Time I Tried To Start It It Wouldn'T Even Turn Over. A Few Hours Later It Started Right Up. I Drove It Straight To My Regular Mechanic. It Was A Friday And He Says It Will Have To Sit Till Monday I Say Thats Ok, Well He Didn'T Get To It Till Tuesday And Usually Before He Ever Repaired The Car In The Past He'D Call First Give A Ballpark Figure And Ask If I Wanted Him To Go Ahead And Fix It, Not This Time. He Calls Me And Said He Replaced The Starter And The Charge $547.00, And Then Tried To Find Out Why Its Running Rough (Like A Broken Motor Mount) Anyway Long Story Short Its Either The Head Gasket Or A Cracked Block Ti Did Overheat Twice After Driving Two Miles About 6 Months Ago And He Couldn'T Find The Problem Back Then. Well Anyway I Cut Him A Check For Replacing The Starter But I Left The Car There Till Tonight,(3Days) Later. It Was After Hours And I Go To Start The Car Adn It Wouldn'T Start I Tried Three Times To Start It The I Waited And Then It Started Just Like He Hadnt Done Nothing Makes Me Wonder If He Replaced The Starter At All In My Receipt It Said The Origanal Stater Had Electricity To It But It Was Starting To Bind Up. Now The Brand New Starter Bound Up Also? I Don'T Believe It. This Guy Has Been My Mechanic For 8 Years But Now Acts Aloof When He Used To Be So Friendly, Anyway Why Does It Act As Though He Didn'T Touch The Starter. I Personally Don'T Even Know Where The Starter Is Even Located On This Engine To See If It Even Looks New. Any Advise Please?
Have it towed to a good shop and get a written diagnosis of the problems. You might then be able to file suit in small claims court and recover your money from the first mechanic. Or you might find that the first mechanic is trying as hard as he can to keep a perfectly useless junker on the road for a valued customer. As to the friendly part, maybe recent marriage issues may be at play. I certainly don't know.