How You Can Effectively Tackle The First Big Auto Repair Job Now you know how to change oil within your car, you may wish to carry out
a bigger auto repair task. Oftentimes, car enthusiasts choose to go on a DIY method of car repair not just as being a hobby, but as a technique to save money. When your car keeps breaking down and you will barely pay for the parts to solve it, there's no method for you to purchase professional labor. Before you tackle a major repair job, take a look at several of the expert advice below! Research First You can't take apart your car and wish to use it back together again in the event you don't know every one of the parts. Unless you do have a unusual vehicle, you can easily get ahold of any aftermarket manual for your model and make. These manuals can be extremely useful when you are identifying the parts of the car and how they can be come up with. Along with, there are simple to follow diagrams that could simplify the procedure. Besides a physical manual, turn to Internet forums for help. Chances are, somewhere on earth, someone has recently asked the identical questions as you may. If you believe stuck or you do have a specific problem you can't wrap your face around, post in the forums and request! Clear Workspace Area Working on an auto takes considerably more space than many people would estimate. You may think your garage has ample room, but you might be in for a rude surprise when you begin the repair. It's better to clear lots of space and set up up a workspace without additional clutter to produce your career easier. Repair Needs Time To Work It's crucial that you understand that auto repair takes quite a lot of time as well as perseverance. In case the vehicle you want to repair is the only ride to function, setup a carpool with a friend or find alternative transportation before you take your car or truck out from commission. Be ready to make plenty of trips to a home improvement store and await your car parts into the future in, which can all devote some time. Keep Organized It's simple to take something apart, nevertheless it could become a nightmare to get it together again again. Once you have a large number of nuts, bolts, and washers you're removing out of your car, it might seem like a hopeless task to not forget the way it all goes together. Before you take your vehicle apart, go on a photograph of methods the various components look when properly installed. Once you've done that, label everything using a white pen and keep them properly sorted in both plastic baggies or old egg cartons. You could have a lot of enthusiasm for auto repair, but ensure you do your research first, clear enough workspace, and keep everything properly labeled. Many novice mechanics have learned that spending some time to make a checklist can also help create a realm of difference! If you stay organized and go in depth, you will be able to properly repair the first car.
FAQ's Auto Repair
Do Auto Mechanics Often Have Health Problems Later In Life?
I Always Notice On The Oil Bottles When I Change My Oil About How Contact Of Oil With The Skin Has Been Tied To Some Kinds Of Cancer, Or Something Like That. Isn'T All The Grease, Brake Dust (Asbestos), Gasoline, Antifreeze, Freon, And Oil, Hazardous? Well, I Know It Is. I Guess It'S Okay If You Work On Your Own Car From Time To Time And You'Re Careful, But What About The Mechanics That Work On Cars All Day, Everyday, Their Entire Lives - Black Fingers Their Whole Life. This Is Constant Exposure. Even Though They'Re Careful And Don'T Drink The Antifreeze, They Are Exposed To It At Some Small Level - For A Prolonged Period Of Time. Your Skin Can Absorb This Stuff.
Auto mechanics are exposed to lots of nasty things during their careers.
The least of which is oil. Oil can stain your skin over a long period of
time, but probably wouldn't cause cancer. Exposure to antifreeze is
dangerous if you ingest/inhale large quantities quickly. This is because
of the ethylene glycol used to make the antifreeze. Ethylene glycol is
poisonous to humans. However, it isn't an accumulated affect. In small
amounts, the liver and kidneys can clean the toxin from the body...it's
large amounts at once that over load your system and cause renal
failure. That's when you organs start shutting down and you die. Another
thing that is dangerous for auto mechanics is asbestos. It is found in
brake pads and some other parts of the engine. Asbestos is a fiber that
when inhaled can damage the lungs, and over a period of time can cause a
specific type of cancer called mesothelioma. Gasoline is dangerous when
inhaled..and it is a accumulated problem. Prolonged exposure to fumes
will kill brain cells and be a cause of strokes.
All in all, there really shouldn't be a problem...more so than any other
occupation. My grandfather was a mechanic for 50 years almost and he's
still kicking around if not in great health..atleast decent.
1991 Toyota 4Runner Engine Mis-Fire?
I Just Bought A Truck And I Didnt Notice At The Time It Was Mis-Firing When In Idle/Park. Anyway, I Doubt Its Going To Pass Emissions Due To This Problem. There Is Some Smoke Coming Out Of The Exhaust. I Changed The Oil To See If It Had A Mix Of Coolent In It, But No. It Was Black. It Doesnt Seem To Overheat Either. I Checked And It Was Pretty Full Of Coolent, So It Doesnt Look Like Its Leaking. Maybe A Little. With All That It Doesnt Appear To Be A Head Gasket.
I Changed The Spark Plug Wires Also, But No Change. I Guess I Could Change The Spark Plugs Too. What Else Can Cause Misfires Like This??
I Was Told It Could Be A Bad Valve. I Highly Doubt It Sense This Is A Newer Motor/Rebuilt. Not Sure What One. Anyway It Only Has Less Than 20K On This Motor. So I Dont Think Its A Bad Valve. Any Idea??? Please Help.
Should change the spark plugs to eliminate those parts. Other than a timing issue or valve problem, a bad fuel injector could also cause a misfire.
Acceleration Problems With My 1992 Toyota Camry? ?
I Have A 1992 Toyota Camry Xle V6 3.0 L And Me And My Father Just Replaced The Head Due To Bent Valve And Ever Since We Put It Back Together There Has Been Acceleration Problems. When The Engine Is Cooled Down The Acceleration Is Terrible. The Harder I Push The Gas Pedal Has No Effect On The Acceleration And It Feels Like The Acceleration Is Lacking Really Bad. But As The Car Gets Hotter The Acceleration Gets Better. It Makes No Sense. We Just Replaced The Head And All The Gaskets And Did A Tune Up. If Anyone Can Give Me Some Input It Would Be Greatly Appreciated. Thank You
its probably a vacuum leak. I'd look at the vacuum lines that were taken off and make sure there arent cracks in the lines...I had a brake booster problem and it was due to me putting a vacuum line on backwards. it must have kinked the line so make sure that the vacuum line you put back on isnt backwords.
1999 Toyota Camry Cracked Cylinder Gasket? Can Someone Help Us Out?
My Dad Was Selling His 1999 Toyota Camry With About 110,Xxx Miles On It, And The Buyer Requested To Have The Car Inspected At A Mechanic Store (A Chain Store) Nearby. Our Whole Family Has Driven The Car For The Past 5 Years With No Problems, Oils And Other Necessities Are Regularly Changed. The Day Before The Inspection, The Buyer Test Drove The Car With My Dad, And Everything Turned Out Okay. The Day Of The Inspection, The Mechanic Gave A Green Report Noting Minor Things Such As Tires. The Buyer Requested That The Guy From The Mechanic To Have A Test Drive. The Mechanic Drove It For A Mile, And When He Returned, There'S Smoke Coming Out Of The Car, And When They Opened The Hood, There'S Oil Coming Out Of The Engine. We Took It To Another Mechanic To Figure Out What Happened, And Was Told That The Cylinder Head Gasket Is Blown, And The Engine Needs To Be Replaced. The Mechanic Is Not Wiling To Take Any Responsibility And Argues The Car Had A Flawed Internal Design. Right Now I'M Wondering What Are The Odds Of Getting A Blown Engine During The 1 Mile Test Drive By The Mechanic, After Having A Positive Pre-Sale Inspection From The Same Mechanic, If It'S An Internal Flaw. And Also If It Was Triggered By The Mechanic, Could He Have Over-Accelerated Or Done Something Crazy To Blow The Engine? Any Info Or Tips Are Appreciated Since We Have Minimal Knowledge Of Cars.
i stopped reading less than half way through.
likely the head gasket was marginal. and the mechanic pushed it too hard. not necessarily too hard for the vehicle/engine, but too hard for a gasket that was marginal already. the gasket went by by.
who gets the blame for that, i can't comment. mechanically speaking, it's a crap shoot as when it was going to go or who would be driving it when it did.
just know, you did verbally authorize a "test" drive by that mechanic. unless you have witnesses that heard you state any conditions, i think you're outta luck.
but it hardly seems like the engine is "blown". that is totally destroyed.
head gasket change and check the head for deck level. if the heads deck is good, *likely* the block deck is good as well. not definitive though.
you just don't know. the gasket could have easily up and failed driving from the testing.testing, or the next day. when ever. you just can never really know.
Unusual Car Overheating?
Hello, I Have A 1996 Toyota Camry 2.2L 4 Cyl. The Car Overheats To Put It Simply, But The Unusual Part Is That It Overheats Intermittently. I Have Taken It To The Shop And They Said The System Wasnt Holding Pressure That The Groove Where The Radiator Cap Sits Is Bad And Pressure Is Leaking From There. So I Had Replaced The Radiator, Cap, And Cts, Along With Fresh Coolant. The Problem Seemed Fixed For A Week But Then It Overheated Again. Coolant All Over The Top Down To Bottom And On The Inner Side Of Fan Shroud, Im Guessing The Coolant Had Leaked From The Hose Going From Radiator To The Reservoir. But No Cracks In Hoses. So I Checked The Hose Clamp Holding The Hose On To The Radiator And It Has Two Clamps Which Are Very Weak, I Can Compress Them Using My Thumb And Index Finger. Could That Be The Problem? Not Alot Of Coolant Had Leaked Yet Because By The Time The Car Had Reached Redline In Temp It Was Already Home And Was Shut Off Immediately. Could The Thermostat Be A Problem? Intermittently Sticking Closed? Upper And Lower Hoses Both Feel About Equally Hot When Car Is Fully Warmed Up. Also The Heater Doesnt Work Well. It Takes A Very Long Time To Get Hot. I Mean I Understand That Coolant Has To Get Hot First But It Takes Almost 10 Min Till Warm Air Starts Coming In, This Heater Test Was Done At Idle Only. Also Checked Heater Hoses Both Hot Now Im Trying To Recreat The Problem To Get A Better Understanding Of What Is Going On But I Cannot Recreat It, It Wont Overheat Again.
is the pump (fan) definitely being turned by the belt and it's not slipping? As someone else said, it could be a bad thermostat too, which isn't allowing the coolant to flow throughout the engine. My biggest question would be- is it overheating in stop-go traffic or on the highway? If stop-go....I'd check to see if the electric cooling fan (it is an electric right?) is actually being engaged. There should be a thermostat that triggers the cooling fan to engage. If it doesn't, and you're not moving at 30 mph or more, the coolant can't cool off.
If it's none of those things......overheating is usually a blown head gasket. The exhaust gases get into the coolant....and heat it up. That's a catastrophic type thing.
Carborator On An 1986 Ford Bronco, Straight 6?
My Carborator Is Making A Spitting Noise When Its Idoling...Kinda Like It Putting, Its Hard To Explain....Any Suggestions Of What It Might Be?
Does it run badly also? the noise you describe could be from a crossed plug wire, carbon arced distributor cap, bad head gasket between 2 cylinders, or burned or sticky intake valve, if it is a fairly loud "popping" sound.
a vacuum gage will tell about that: it the needle will "jerk around" when the "pop" occurs.
If it is a more "spitting" sound it could be a clogged jet in the carb, or a worn venturi, or a float level too high.
This would mean rebuliding or replacoing the carb.