How You Can Effectively Tackle The Initial Big Auto Repair Job Now you realize how to change oil in your car, you may wish to carry out
a greater auto repair task. Oftentimes, car enthusiasts plan to have a DIY method of car repair not just like a hobby, but as a way to save money. When your car keeps wearing down and you can barely pay the parts to fix it, there's no way you can pay money for professional labor. Before you decide to tackle a major repair job, look into a few of the expert advice below! Research First You can't take apart your car and aspire to put it together again again should you don't know all the parts. Unless you have a rare vehicle, it is simple to get ahold of your aftermarket manual for your model and make. These manuals can be really helpful in identifying the parts of the car and how they can be created. Not forgetting, there are simple to follow diagrams that can simplify the procedure. Apart from an actual manual, turn to Internet forums for help. Chances are, somewhere worldwide, someone has asked the same questions while you. If you believe stuck or you have a specific problem you can't wrap your face around, post on the forums and inquire! Clear Workspace Area Focusing on an automobile takes a lot more space than many people would estimate. You might think your garage has ample room, but you may be set for a rude surprise as soon as you begin with the repair. It's better to clear plenty of room and set up up a workspace without additional clutter to make your work easier. Repair Will Take Time It's vital that you know that auto repair takes quite a lot of some time and perseverance. If the vehicle you would like to repair will be your only ride to be effective, create a carpool with a friend or find alternative transportation before taking your automobile out from commission. Be prepared to make lots of trips to your home improvement store and await your car or truck parts into the future in, which could all take some time. Keep Organized It's simple to take something apart, nevertheless it may become a nightmare to set it back together again again. If you have lots of nuts, bolts, and washers you're removing from the car, it could think that an impossible task to not forget the way all goes together. Before you take your car or truck apart, take a photograph of methods the various components look when properly installed. Once you've done that, label everything by using a white pen whilst keeping them properly sorted in both plastic baggies or old egg cartons. You could have a lot of enthusiasm for auto repair, but make sure you seek information first, clear enough workspace, and maintain everything properly labeled. Many novice mechanics also have found that spending some time to generate a checklist will also help create a field of difference! In the event you stay organized and go comprehensive, it will be possible to correctly repair the first car.
FAQ's Auto Repair
Toyota 3.0 Problems, What Would Cause A Rough Idle And Smoke...?
I Just Bought A 90' 4X4 Ex Cab Auto With The V6 3.0. The Coolant Level Was Very Low On The Truck. The Oil Was Over Filled By Two Quarts (But There Was Hardly A Discoloration Due To Coolant Contamination) I Started The Truck And It Fired Right Up With A Little Press On The Pedal.After It Fired Up It Smoked A Little Bit Out From The Pipe But Was Very Light Grey And Smelt Like Unburned Fuel(I Am Thinking From Sitting) After It Fired Up I Turned It Off, Then Removed Some Oil So It Was At Its Accurate Level. I Started It Up Again And It Began To Smoke From Up Under The Intake Manifold Gasket, When I Press On The Accelerator Pedal U Can Tell There Is A Vacuum Leak. The Coolant Level Has Not Dropped And The Oil Looks Like Some Water May Have Contaminated It But The Level Has Not Gone Up On The Dipstick. After I Turn The Truck Off It Smokes From The Dipstick For 2 Seconds And When I Pull Out The Dipstick It Shows It Is Overfilled, But As Soon As I Wipe It Off And Recheck It Is Right Back To Its Original State, I Think There Is Some Pressure Buildup In The Oil Pan?
I Think It Is The Intake Manifold Gasket Seeing That The Truck Does Not Blow White Smoke And That It Seems To Be Running Pretty Decent.
Please Let Me Know What U Guys Think, Thanks Chewbac63
When are people going to learn that Toyota's are basically junk? Sorry! I hope you did not pay a lot.
Everything you describe sounds like a blown gasket but water in the oil almost always points to a head gasket issue. Overfilling the oil by that much certainly did not do the engine any good either and probably forced oil into places where it should not be.
If it were my truck I'd do these things:
check the compression at each cylinder, that will answer the head gasket question
drain the oil, run a motor flush, that will clean out the sludge from overfilling
change the filter, and refill with a good multi-weight,
replace the spark plugs which are likely fouled
The vacuum leak might very well be just an open hose but you do need to find it as modern engines do not run correctly with open vacuum ports.
Good luck to you.
Toyota Xtra Cab Reliability?
I Am About To Buy A Toyota Xtra Cab With A 3.0, Automatic Transmission, And A Blown Head Gasket. And Possible Some Coolant In The Crank Case. So What I'M Asking Is Are These Trucks Reliable When New? I Might Have To Put A Whole New Crate Motor In It.. Btw The Truck Is Spotless, Not A Dent Or Scratch And I Can Get It For Cheap
NO, they are NOT reliable as can be seen here: http://www.toyotaframerust.com/
If A Car Has Blown A Head Gasket, Would The Compression Still Be High?
I Think That My 1997 Toyota Camry Has Blown A Head Gasket, But All The Knowledgeable &Quot;Mechanics&Quot; Say That If It Did, It Would No Have Very High Pressure. The Pressure Is So Great, I Can Hear The Anti-Freeze Boil From Inside My Car.
i'm going to assume that the car is overheating by your question. i start with this because you cannot hear a head gasket leak unless you are hearing a cylinder misfiring due to coolant getting into it. what you are probably hearing is the coolant boiling in the engine due to excessive heat which is usually casused by a stuck thermostat, fan not working, or a water pump not moving the coolant through the radiator. if this is the case you need to fix this condition before it does cause a head gasket problem.
a shop can check for a head gasket problem very easily and it shouldn't cost much. they have a block tester that will see if combustion gases are getting into the coolant which would signify a head gasket, cracked head or block type problem. a compression check of the cylinders is not the easiest or most accurate way to check it.
most important is to get it checked and fixed before it causes major problems
So I'M Thinking Of Buying A 2000 Toyota 4Runner. Its Got 223,000 Miles On It. Help.?
With The 223K Miles, I'M Wondering If Any Of The Following Are Likely To Occur Soon:
Engine Blowing/Head Gaskets Blowing
Anything Major Going Besides Water Pump And Timing Belts, Because I Know Those Will.
Also, Is It Worth Getting? I'D Be Getting It For 2500, And Needing To Replace Some Things That Totaled Out To 800-1000. Everything Else Is In Pretty Good Condition. Good Deal, Not A Good Deal? I Know 4Runners Are Known For Their Longevity And Reliability. I'M Looking For Personal/Mechanic Experience, Thanks.
Modern vehicles (I consider '96 and newer to be modern, but everyone's opinion may differ) tend to last much longer than those of previous generations. The last car that I had was a 95 Buick with over 350k miles on it.
But the transmission was not original. The trans had been replaced under warranty while owned by the previous owner. I got the car with 80k miles on it, still had that trans when I overheated the engine and broke the engine. Salvage Yard after that. My GF has a 2006 Sabb with 260k on the odometer, it's still on the road with the original engine & transmission.
On the other hand I've seen vehicles that needed major repair prematurely due to abuse. Case in point, I had to replace the engine in a car that was less than a year old when the owner drove it without oil pressure. He didn't drive it without oil, he drove it without oil pressure. His previous car was a clunker that burned as much oil as it did gas, so he had a habit of adding oil every week. One day he decided to get a brand new car, and kept the habit of adding oil every week. The oil level rose to the point where the rotating assembly churned the oil, mixing it with air in the crankcase. Oil pumps can produce suffient oil pressure when they pump oil, but not when it's pumping a foamy mixture of oil and air.
My point is, a car well maintained will offer many years and many miles of service, regardless of brand. A car abused will quickly drain your wallet in repair costs, regardless of brand.
The car will need physically examined (instead of by someone on a Q&A internet forum) to determine if the vehicle is worth the $2,500, and if it will require and immediate repairs.
Having said that, if the car uses a rubber timing belt as opposed to a steel timing chain, replace the belt as soon as time and finances permit. Having a piston try and compress a valve will hurt your wallet, especially if it occurs when you least expect.
How To Pass A Smog Check?
The 6 Smog Check Passing Tips - before you visit the smog test center! These are only the short answers for each section. We encourage you to read "Emissions Test Passing Tips" in it's entirety at... http://www.smogtips.com/passing-emissions-test.cfm
1. Running Right - Do not subject your vehicle to a Smog Inspection if it does not run right.
2. Take a Drive - Drive your vehicle for at least 20 minutes prior to arriving at the smog station.
3. Use Additives - The use of fuel additives can be very helpful in lowering emission levels.
4. Inflate Tires - Making sure your vehicle's tire pressures are even and correct will allow the vehicle to be driven with greater stability and accuracy during the smog exam.
5. Change Oil - If it's close to your next oil change interval, go ahead and do it before the smog check.
6. Check Engine Light Off - Make sure your vehicle's Check Engine Light or Malfunction Indicator Lamp is not illuminated.
Brought to you by: http://www.SmogTips.com
My Car Turns On But Sometimes It Will Shake And Then Die After A Few Seconds. What Is Wrong?
I Have A 96 Toyota Camry, 4 Cylinder. I Don'T Know What The Problem Is. I Called A Mechanic And He Replaced The Spark Plugs, Head Gasket, And Fixed The Engine Basically. The Car Worked For Two Days Then The Problem Came Back. The Engine Check Light Was On And So I Took The Car To Autozone And They Looked It Up For Me And It Said: Igniter System Malfunction, Misfiring. So I Got A New Igniter (Ignition Control Module) And Replaced The Old One. And The Car Is Working So Far, Although It Turns Off Sometimes. And The Engine Check Light Is Still On And It Is Saying Igniter Misfiring.
What Would Cause This Problem? I Am Clueless And Would Like To Hear Any Opinion, Even The Mechanic Has No Idea. Thank You :)
Check the wiring harness, I had the same issue on my 1996 plymouth neon the wiring harness was all decayed and messed up which was causing shorts in the engine while I was driving. It would cause the car to buck violently while I was driving. I went through the same laundry list of fixes caused by mechanics who only know how to replace parts and not fix anything. It's like a doctor fixing the symptoms and not the root cause of the problem. I'm not saying this is the exact issue but it could be. Also, check the idle level on the vehicle, it might be too low.