How To Effectively Tackle Your First Big Auto Repair Job Now that you understand how to change oil inside your car, you may wish to undertake
a larger auto repair task. Oftentimes, car enthusiasts decide to take a DIY procedure for car repair not simply being a hobby, but as a method to spend less. In case your car keeps breaking down and you can barely pay for the parts to fix it, there's no way you can pay for professional labor. Prior to tackle a huge repair job, look into a number of the expert advice below! Research First You can't take apart your car and hope to input it back together again in the event you don't know each of the parts. Unless you have a rare vehicle, it is simple to get ahold of the aftermarket manual for the model and make. These manuals are incredibly helpful in identifying the various components of your respective car and how they may be come up with. Along with, there are super easy to follow diagrams that can simplify the procedure. Besides an actual manual, check out Internet forums for help. Chances are, somewhere on the planet, someone has already asked exactly the same questions as you. If you are stuck or you do have a specific problem you can't wrap the head around, post in the forums and ask! Clear Workspace Area Working on an automobile takes considerably more space than many people would estimate. You may be thinking your garage has ample room, but you might be in for a rude surprise when you begin the repair. It's better to clear plenty of room and set up a workspace without additional clutter to make your career easier. Repair Will Take Time It's important to understand that auto repair takes a lot of some time and perseverance. In case the vehicle you want to repair can be your only ride to operate, put in place a carpool using a friend or find alternative transportation prior to taking your vehicle from commission. Expect to make plenty of trips to a home improvement store and await your car parts in the future in, that may all devote some time. Keep Organized It's simple to take something apart, but it may become a nightmare to set it back together again again. Once you have dozens of nuts, bolts, and washers you're removing through your car, it might seem like a hopeless task to keep in mind the actual way it all goes together. Before you take your automobile apart, go on a photograph of how the parts look when properly installed. Once you've done that, label everything having a white pen and keep them properly sorted either in plastic baggies or old egg cartons. You may have plenty of enthusiasm for auto repair, but be sure you do your research first, clear enough workspace, while keeping everything properly labeled. Many novice mechanics have also learned that taking the time to produce a checklist can also help produce a realm of difference! In the event you stay organized and go in depth, it is possible to properly repair your first car.
FAQ's Auto Repair
How Much Would It Cost To Put A Head Gasket Back Together After It Has Been Milled At Machine Shop?
I Had The Head Gasket Taken Off And Sent To The Shop To Get Milled And Now All I Have To Do Is Put It Back Together .
Are you talking about the gasket, or the head itself? I've never heard of any place milling the gasket.
10 Pts For Best Detailed Answer About Headbolts For Toyota Truck!?
Do You Really Have To Have Two Sets Of New Headbolts To Replace The Old Ones When Changing A Blowed Head Gasket In A 1992 V6 3.0 4Wd Half Ton Toyota Truck? I Heard That If You Use The Old Bolts Then It Will Be Weak And Probably Blow Again. Is This True? New Sets Cost 30 Dollars A Peice And Id Like To Save The Money If I Can. Please Explain. Thankyou!
the toyota factory shop manual shows them as non-reusable. they are torque to yield bolts. as stated, they stress and torque settings maybe skewed.
if you have the 3VZE engine with the right exhaust manifold routed over the top of the bell housing, you want to use new ones. the heat on the heads and head gaskets back there are know for failure, do to the heat.
i typically re-use head bolts on other engines. but for this engine, i wouldn't.
if your exhaust doesn't go over the engine/bell housing, you can prolly get away with the old ones. in either case, it's not per manual.
it's your choice.
owner 93 toy pu 3VZE 3.0 V6
My Sister Has A 2000 Toyota Camry Which Is 'Eating' Alot Of Oil, But Not Burning It. Could This Be A?
Head Gasket Problem?
It could be a head gasket problem but that would be unusual. It's more likely a leaking valve stem oil seal that is letting a little oil get into a cylinder, where it is burned. It could also be a leak that drips oil as the car is driven.
Check the spark plugs and see if one has more crud on it than the others. That's a good indication that some oil is being burned. You only see clouds of oil smoke behind a car when the situation is REALLY bad, not when there is minor burning. I had a 1987 Audi that used a quart of oil every 500 miles but never smoked.
Help....My Car Will Turn Over But Will Not Start ?
I Hv A 98 Toyota Camry 4 Cylinder When I Try To Start It Everything Seems Fine But It Will Not Catch To Start. There Is Water, Oil, & It Wasn'T Smoking. I Was Driving & The Car Just Started To Slow Down Even When I Was Flooring The Gas. Now It Wnt Start. What Could Hv Happened? I Really Would Appreciate Some Advice. Thnx.
You need a few things to start the motor- fuel, air, compression and spark at the right time. Take the air filter out and see if it starts. If so, that's easy to fix- a new filter. Fuel is a bit harder to check because your car has fuel injection, right? You can squirt engine starting fluid into the intake manifold (where the air filter goes) and if it starts, then you have a fuel delivery problem. If you pull the spark plugs, you can do a compression test, but this is trickier and you'll need the compression tester. Spark is fairly easy to check- with the spark plugs out, put the number one plug on the wire, then hold it with a stick against the head. (Be careful because you don't want to be in the circuit of a few thousand volts.) If you see spark, that's good. If not, then you heed to check your ignition system.
With a gradual loss of power leading to not starting, it could be several things- your fuel delivery system could have failed, your ignition system could have gone down, slowly, or your air intake got closed gradually. Hard to say what your problem really is. Your local library will have a reference section with a Hayne's or Chilton's manual. Read the troubleshooting chapter and see what matches your symptoms. Best of luck !!!
I Have A 1996 Full Size Ford Bronco With A 5.8 Liter Windsor Engine And I Want To Supercharge It?
I'Ve Been Doing A Lot Of Research On Superchargers But I Don'T Know Enough About Them To Make The Correct Choice. I Want Something Used Thats Nice Not Beaten Up, Maybe Even Something New But Not To Expensive.
Buying a used supercharger comes with risk. You may save some money if it's in good working condition but you won't know that until you bolt it on, start the engine, and then drive it. It could have a bad bearing, the compressor parts could be worn, or you might need a new belt. You won't even know if it's 100% right for your application unless the owner can prove it or if you contact the manufacturer. You'd have to make sure you get every piece that came with it or you'd have to pay a premium to get those parts separately from the manufacturer. You can repair or rebuild any worn compressor since the manufacturer will make service parts for them.
However, having said that you may have no choice but to buy a used supercharger if you want a bolt on kit without having to modify or customize anything since I don't think anyone makes a kit for your application anymore if they even ever did. Vortech and Kenne Bell used to make kits for the 1987-96 F-150/Bronco 5.0L but no longer produce them.
All supercharger kits are expensive. The size of the compressor and the amount of boost it can produce is really the deciding factor of the price. A larger compressor will be able to produce more boost with less effort, RPM, and wear and tear on it. The more boost you run the harder it is on the engine and the more risk you take blowing head gaskets or doing other more catastrophic damage. If the engine has 100000 miles or more you'll probably wind up doing something to it eventually due to the supercharger but you never really know how long the engine will go for before a problem occurs.
If you run 5 lbs of boost(generally the minimum) with a centrifugal type supercharger like the Vortech you might get about a 75 hp and 75 ft lbs of torque increase on your engine. This will be very noticeable and the safest and easiest way to do it. There's also a roots type supercharger like the Kenne Bell but the deck of the 5.8L is higher than that of the 5.0L so they won't be compatible.
My suggestion is go onto any Ford truck forum and see what they say about putting a kit on a Bronco. People will talk about what they done to make it work with a 5.8L and you can even post a question if you join. Here's an example of a forum where they talk a little about a 5.0L supercharger: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/185134...
A Question For A Mechanic Or Mechanically Inclined?
My Car A 95 Toyota 4Runner Has Been Running Rough At Start Up And Then After A Few Minutes It Would Mellow Out, Also The Gas Mileage Using Twice As Much Gas, Two Months Ago I Get A Major Tune-Up Costing $480.00 The Roughness Stopped For About A Month Then Slowly Started Again. Then Last Week I Drove And Noticed Some White Smoke From The Tailpipe. Next Time I Tried To Start It It Wouldn'T Even Turn Over. A Few Hours Later It Started Right Up. I Drove It Straight To My Regular Mechanic. It Was A Friday And He Says It Will Have To Sit Till Monday I Say Thats Ok, Well He Didn'T Get To It Till Tuesday And Usually Before He Ever Repaired The Car In The Past He'D Call First Give A Ballpark Figure And Ask If I Wanted Him To Go Ahead And Fix It, Not This Time. He Calls Me And Said He Replaced The Starter And The Charge $547.00, And Then Tried To Find Out Why Its Running Rough (Like A Broken Motor Mount) Anyway Long Story Short Its Either The Head Gasket Or A Cracked Block Ti Did Overheat Twice After Driving Two Miles About 6 Months Ago And He Couldn'T Find The Problem Back Then. Well Anyway I Cut Him A Check For Replacing The Starter But I Left The Car There Till Tonight,(3Days) Later. It Was After Hours And I Go To Start The Car Adn It Wouldn'T Start I Tried Three Times To Start It The I Waited And Then It Started Just Like He Hadnt Done Nothing Makes Me Wonder If He Replaced The Starter At All In My Receipt It Said The Origanal Stater Had Electricity To It But It Was Starting To Bind Up. Now The Brand New Starter Bound Up Also? I Don'T Believe It. This Guy Has Been My Mechanic For 8 Years But Now Acts Aloof When He Used To Be So Friendly, Anyway Why Does It Act As Though He Didn'T Touch The Starter. I Personally Don'T Even Know Where The Starter Is Even Located On This Engine To See If It Even Looks New. Any Advise Please?
Have it towed to a good shop and get a written diagnosis of the problems. You might then be able to file suit in small claims court and recover your money from the first mechanic. Or you might find that the first mechanic is trying as hard as he can to keep a perfectly useless junker on the road for a valued customer. As to the friendly part, maybe recent marriage issues may be at play. I certainly don't know.