How You Can Effectively Tackle Your First Big Auto Repair Job Now you realize how to change oil in your car, you may decide to undertake
a much bigger auto repair task. Oftentimes, car enthusiasts choose to require a DIY procedure for car repair not merely like a hobby, but as a method to save money. If your car keeps deteriorating and you could barely pay the parts to fix it, there's no way you can purchase professional labor. Before you decide to tackle a big repair job, have a look at some of the expert advice below! Research First You can't take apart your automobile and hope to place it back together again again when you don't know all of the parts. Unless you have a very rare vehicle, you can easily get ahold of an aftermarket manual for your make and model. These manuals are incredibly helpful in identifying the various components of your car and how they may be come up with. Not to mention, there are really easy to follow diagrams that can simplify the process. Besides a physical manual, look to Internet forums for help. Odds are, somewhere in the world, someone has recently asked exactly the same questions while you. If you are stuck or there is a specific problem you can't wrap your face around, post about the forums and inquire! Clear Workspace Area Taking care of an automobile takes considerably more space than some individuals would estimate. You might think your garage has ample room, but you might be set for a rude surprise once you begin the repair. It's wise to clear lots of space and set up a workspace without additional clutter to produce your work easier. Repair Takes Time It's important to recognize that auto repair takes significant amounts of some time and perseverance. In case the vehicle you intend to repair will be your only ride to be effective, set up a carpool having a friend or find alternative transportation before you take your automobile out from commission. Be ready to make a lot of trips into a hardware store and watch for your car or truck parts ahead in, which may all devote some time. Keep Organized It's very easy to take something apart, but it really can be a nightmare to set it together again again. When you have dozens of nuts, bolts, and washers you're removing through your car, it could feel as if a hopeless task to keep in mind how it all goes together. Prior to taking your vehicle apart, go on a photograph of how the parts look when properly installed. Once you've done that, label everything using a white pen whilst keeping them properly sorted either in plastic baggies or old egg cartons. You might have a good amount of enthusiasm for auto repair, but ensure you do your research first, clear enough workspace, and maintain everything properly labeled. Many novice mechanics also have found that finding the time to generate a checklist can also help produce a world of difference! In the event you stay organized and go in depth, you will be able to properly repair your first car.
FAQ's Auto Repair
Help!!! 1990 Honda Accord Missed Step In Head Gaskt Chng?
Please Don'T State Obvious Or Silly Responses!!!!
I Don'T Claim To Be A Mechanic But I Have Rebuilt Two 67 Mustangs And My 97 Maxima Runs Like New! So I Started This Project With A Little Confidence!
What Step I Skipped: Yes I Know That You Should Always Bring Your Cranks To Tdc When Working On Heads, Timing, And Crank Seals...And Thats The Step I Skipped!!!
I Was Asked To Repair A 1990 Honda Accord And Doing So My Brother In Law Would Give My Wife A 2000 Toyota 4Runner In Exchange For The Work And Monies Owed! So I Took On The Repairs...I Thought It Was Just Head Gaskets But Went Ahead And Changed The Valve Gaskets And The Oil Pan Gaskets Too Since They All Looked Like They Looked Bad! Well...After All The Work Was Done And Put Back Together...I Started Putting Oil In The Car And Once I Got To The Fourth Quart I Started To Hear A Trickle Sound Coming From The Bottom Of The Car, It Was Coming From The(Under) Timing Belt Cover. Haven'T Opened It Up Yet But Im Assuming Its The Cam Or Crank Seal(I Was Told It Was Leaking Like That Prior, And Thats Why They Said It Was Leaking). I Went To Read The Service Manual And Realized That When I Did The Heads...I Had Taken Apart The Rocker Assembly And Didn'T Put The Cylinders To Tdc!!!!
First, What If Any Is The Remedy For My Skipping The Step? Second...Any Tips On Changing The Two Seals??? I Hear The Crank Pulley Is A Toughy To Take Off??? Thanks For Any Help
The timing belt is no big deal, you just have to take it slow. It is not likely you moved the cam much when you had the head off and probably did not move the crank at all. If the cam was moved a lot it can still be done but it takes more patience.
You are right - the crank bolt is a devil to get off but you probably don't have to. If the spark plugs are in, take them out to kill compression. Put a socket on the crank bolt and gently pull the crank counterclockwise (yes, like you are loosening the bolt - never turn the crank clockwise on that era Honda) until the TDC mark lines up with the pointer above the crank. Use no more force than necessary to move the crank so you can feel if the pistons and valves try to bang heads. If you feel the valves and pistons hit, remove the timing belt from the cam sprocket and move the cam sprocket one tooth whichever direction it will turn, put the timing belt back on, and continue. When the TDC mark lines up you can do the final setting of the cam sprocket like normal and go ahead on.
If you get into a corner where the crank is at TDC but the cam won't turn far enough to line up without hitting the valves, turn the crank clockwise (I know I told you never to do that, but we will deal with the problem) about a tenth of a rotation... not critical, just enough to ensure no pistons are all the way up. Remove the timing belt from the cam sprocket and turn the cam sprocket to line up the marks. Turn the crank back (CCW) to the TDC mark and put the timing belt on, lined up. The problem with turning the crank backward is the tensioner is then on the wrong side of the belt and the belt can jump. We just fixed the timing afterward.
I doubt the crank seal is bad. The crank seal is entirely out of the oil under normal conditions (after all, the oil should never reach the bottom of the crank), but the cam seal has to hold back the oil when you put oil in and when it is running. If you have to change the cam seal get the cam lined up with the crank first so you are not fighting that after disturbing it again.
Sell Car Or Repair It?
I Need Help On Deciding Whether To Keep My Used Car Of Sell It. It'S A 1994 Ford Explorer, And It Has Over 160,000 Miles On It. It Keeps Needing Repairs And I'M Tired Of Paying So Much For Repairs. I Understand That It'S Old And Will Eventually Need These Repairs Like All Cars Do, But I Feel Like I'M Wasting Money. Should I Keep The Car Or Sell It As Is? I Have A Daughter And Husband, But My Husband Rides His Bike To Go To Work And I Can Use The Public Buses To Take My Daughter To Her Daycare, Even Though It'Ll Be A Hassle In Rainy Days. Only Grocery Shopping And Occasionally Going Long Distances Would Be A Problem, As Well As Emergencies. It Would Definitely Be Economically Better To Use Public Transit. I Do Not Want To Buy A New Car At This Point. Should I Keep The Car For Its Convenience Or Sell It?
even in your situation, not so crucial to own a car. you still should have one you know, in case of emergencies. what if your child or either your husband or yourself needed a trip to the emergency room(very likely with kids believe me). maybe i am a little prejudiced, but i only felt comfortable with a ford when it was relatively new (1 to 4 yrs.). i have had many different brands of cars over the years and the one that has been the best is the one i own currently. it is a toyota Tacoma. while this may be too small for your needs they do make larger cars for families. this is the only one i have purchased new. it has 289000 miles on it because i used it in my business. it is a 2003 model. in all this time the only thing i have had to do to it is replace front brake pads (normal), put belts on, tires, and two batteries. no other repairs. not even a tune up. it has never failed to start, and the only time it has left me on the side of the road is a flat tire. i have also owned a camry, and a tercel. they were all very reliable and i highly recommend them. quite frankly though any car, even a toyota that gives me trouble, it has to go. ask yourself would you feel good about getting in your car right now and travel from one coast to the other coast and it not break down on you? if the answer is no, my advise get rid of it! now before you purchase any used car take it to a qualified, uninvolved mechanic to get it checked out. the money you spend will be worth it ! if a seller does not agree to this, find another dealer!
Will My Car Make It 10 Miles? Drive Or Tow.?
According To The Mechanic Of A New Car Dealership, My 1997 Ford Contour Needs A Radiator Fan, New Radiator, Serpentine Belt And Oil Gasket Pan Replaced. I Have A Friend Who Owns A Service Center 10 Miles Away Who I Feel Could Fix It For Less Money And Be More Honest With The Diagnosis. Should I / Can I Risk Driving My Car To Them 10 Miles Away, Or Should I Look To Get It Towed For Around $100?
If your car severely over heats, could blow head Gasket $300.00 at least or total engine, warp head making it not worth the expense to fix.Serpentine belt slips or comes off, can bend your valves, oil pan gasket, just an oily mess, although a chance of fire.
If you are going to drive an old car, buy AAA, Auto club, $35.00 a year, your cost is made up in one tow, one jump, one tire, one battery.
1986 Toyota 22R - Remove Rust In Engine'S Coolant Chambers?
I Have A 1986 Toyota 4Runner 4Wd. The Truck Has Sat Up For A Year After A Blown Head Gasket. Now The Engine Has Surface Rust In The Chamber. It'S Not A Deep Thick Rust, But More Like A Dust Throughout The Coolant Chamber. How Can I Remove The Rust Without Being Able To Start And Run The Engine? Thanks!
you cant really best is start it add antifreeze run it a few weeks and flush it with a cleaner designed to remove rust you will never get all of it you can get most this is why antifreeze is important
How Long Does It Take To Change The Head Gaskets And The Valves On A Toyota Camry?
The Shop Owner Claims Its Going To Be 3 To 5 Days......Should I Believe Him?
It really depends on how busy he is. 3-5 days seems like quite a while.
1-2 should be it. You can do it in one day, but that's with full concentration on your car. 3 tops for a mechanic.
Why Could My 93 Toyota Camry Be Overheating?
1 Inspect Hose Ruptured, Cracked or Leaking Raditor Hose.
2 Inspect Head Gasket Leaking Head Gasket.
3 Inspect Thermostat Thermostat Stuck Closed.
4 Inspect Raditor Cap Worn or Damaged Raditor Cap.
5 Inspect Raditor Raditor Fins Obstructed.
6 Inspect Intake Manifold Gasket Leaking, Worn, or Damaged Intake Manifold Gasket.
7 Inspect Relay - Raditor Cooling Fan Motor Faulty Cooling Fan Relay.
8 Inspect Cooling Fan Switch - Raditor Faulty Raditor Cooling Fan Sensor/Switch.
9 Inspect Water Pump Leaking Water Pump.
10 Inspect Raditor Fan Motor Faulty Raditor Cooling Fan Motor.