How You Can Effectively Tackle The Initial Big Auto Repair Job Since you now learn how to change oil in your car, you may wish to carry out
a greater auto repair task. Oftentimes, car enthusiasts opt to go on a DIY approach to car repair not simply as being a hobby, but as a method to economize. Should your car keeps deteriorating and you could barely afford the parts to fix it, there's no way you can pay for professional labor. Prior to tackle a huge repair job, have a look at some of the expert consultancy below! Research First You can't take apart your car and want to use it back together again again should you don't know all of the parts. Unless you do have a very rare vehicle, you can actually get ahold of your aftermarket manual for your model and make. These manuals are extremely useful in identifying the parts of the car and how they can be assembled. In addition to, there are easy to follow diagrams that can simplify the procedure. Besides a physical manual, turn to Internet forums for help. Odds are, somewhere in the world, someone has asked a similar questions as you. If you think stuck or there is a specific problem you can't wrap your mind around, post about the forums and request! Clear Workspace Area Working on a car takes considerably more space than some individuals would estimate. It may seem your garage has ample room, but you might be in for a rude surprise as soon as you begin with the repair. It's better to clear lots of space and set up up a workspace without additional clutter to create your career easier. Repair Needs Time To Work It's essential to know that auto repair takes a great deal of time and perseverance. If the vehicle you want to repair will be your only ride to be effective, create a carpool by using a friend or find alternative transportation prior to taking your car or truck away from commission. Be prepared to make plenty of trips into a home improvement store and wait for your car or truck parts into the future in, that may all take some time. Keep Organized It's simple to take something apart, however it may become a nightmare to get it back together again again. When you have lots of nuts, bolts, and washers you're removing from your car, it could feel as if a hopeless task to not forget the way all goes together. Before you take your car or truck apart, go on a photograph of methods the parts look when properly installed. Once you've done that, label everything having a white pen and keep them properly sorted either in plastic baggies or old egg cartons. You could have a good amount of enthusiasm for auto repair, but be sure to do your homework first, clear enough workspace, while keeping everything properly labeled. Many novice mechanics have also learned that finding the time to create a checklist can also help come up with a realm of difference! Should you stay organized and go comprehensive, it will be possible to properly repair the initial car.
FAQ's Auto Repair
Toyota 3Vz-E Mpg? Pros/Cons?
I Was Wondering What Mpg You Got For Your 3Vz-E With What Type Of Car.
I Will Be Buying A 1988 Toyota Pickup With A 3Vz-E.
What Are The Pros And Cons Of Having This Engine?
What Should I Check In The Engine When I'M About To Purchase This Truck? It'S My First Car I'M Getting. Thanks!
4x4 or 4x2? auto or 5sp?
toy *did* have bad head gaskets, non asbestos formula (3VZ-E only). but darn near all have been addressed. since this one is running, i assume it's also been done.
that can be verified by calling any toy service department w/the vin. the recall doesn't follow owners. it follows vin's.
there was also a recall on the relay/tie rods. i know that was app for the 4x4s. not sure bout the 4x2s. again, if you call, they will tell you all!
top on the list is a *receipt* for last timing belt and water pump change. to have a belt changed costs around 300-400 in labor alone. since the water pump is a consumable item, and it's under the timing gear, it's in one best interest to have the water pump changed at belt change needed or not.
interval for timing belt change is 90,000 or 72 months. most don't go by the 72 months. i don't. it's a non-interference type engine so there is some wriggle room safety there. mine has well over 100k on the belt. but i do risk a towing bill if it does fail.
because the water pump is under the t-gear, coolant should be pristine. direct indicator of coolant system.
because of the costs of timing belt and water pump replacement, w/o receipts, that would be a big bargaining chip to lower the price. receipts are a must as anyone can say anything to sell a vehicle.
other than that, just the typical cautions when buying any vehicle.
if it's a 4x4, annual dis-assembly, cleaning, re-grease of the hubs would be good to do.
the 3VZ-E is not found in any sedan. only trucks. the sister engine is the 3VZ-FE found in camrys.
difference between the two are two valves per cyl on the Es, and three valves per cyl on the FEs. different cam profile. two valves present a better low end flow and torque curve. three valves per cyl are better for higher rpms.
What Does Smog Check Mean When Buying A Car ? I Am New To Cars?
I Would Like To Know What &Quot; Smog Check&Quot; Means On Used Car Sales And How Much Of An Importance Is It And Why ?
Thanks A Lot !!!
Currently, smog inspections are required for all vehicles except diesel powered vehicles manufactured prior to 1998 or with a Gross Vehicle Weight (GVWR) of more than 14,000 lbs, electric, natural gas powered vehicles over 14,000 lbs, hybrids, motorcycles, trailers, or gasoline powered vehicles 1975 and older.
Vehicles registered in areas subject to the biennial smog certification program are required to submit evidence of a smog certification every other renewal period. Owners of vehicles six or less model years old will pay an annual smog abatement fee for the first six registration years instead of being required to provide a biennial smog certification. The registration renewal notice mailed to you by the department will indicate if a smog certification is required. If a smog certification is required and you have not had a smog inspection, you may still pay your registration fees to avoid any late fees. However, you will not receive your new registration or year sticker until the smog information has been received by DMV.
NOTE: Upon initial registration, nonresident, diesel powered vehicles manufactured in 1998 or after with a (GVWR) rating of no more than 14,000 lbs, and specially constructed vehicles 1976 and newer require smog certification. The six or less model years old rule does not apply to these vehicles.
When you transfer a vehicle that is four or less model years old a smog certification is not required. (Determine the oldest-qualifying year model by subtracting three from the current year.) The four or less model years old rule does not apply to diesel powered vehicles. A smog transfer fee will be collected from the new owner . When a vehicle is more than four model years old, a seller must provide evidence of a current smog certification except when one of the following occurs:
The transfer occurs between a spouse, domestic partner, sibling, child, parent, grandparent, or grandchild.
A biennial smog certification was submitted to DMV within 90 days prior to the vehicle transfer date (a vehicle inspection report may be required for proof of certification).
Smog certifications are good for 90 days from the date of issuance.
When a car is sold, who is responsible for the inspection?
The seller is required to provide the buyer with a valid smog inspection certification at the time of the sale or transfer. Smog certifications are good for 90 days from the date of issuance.
The inspection is not required on a transfer if a biennial smog certification was submitted to DMV within 90 days prior to the vehicle transfer date (a vehicle inspection report may be required for proof of certification).
NOTE: Smog certifications are not required for transfers that occur for a gasoline powered motor vehicle that is four or less model years old. (Determine the oldest-qualifying year model by subtracting three from the current year) the four or less model years old rule does not apply to diesel powered vehicles. A smog transfer fee will be collected from the new owner.
Does The Car Seller Have To Get A Smog Certificate For The Buyer In California?
I Thought Cars Had To Be Tested Before Changing Title In California But My Friend Just Bought A Car That Wasn'T, Now He Has A Huge Problem, Because The Car Didn'T Pass. The Seller Refuses To Take It Back.
Yes, to protect you from buying a car that will drain your pocket. Example A; $3500 car, you like it, the seller has recently smogged vehicle and new tags, great, bad side is it cost him $1000 to get the car too pass and now is wondering if the car will pass next year, he decides to sell now, offering a discounted $100 if you accept to smog vehicle WHEN YOU CAN. Great, you think, not, smog cost $40, vehicle fails and now a diagnosis is required to find the solution $75 to start, the shop calls back to tell you they have found the catalytic converter is not efficient or below threshold, great you think! Why we just need a cat converter,($300minimum in the state of cali), no not yet, turns out the cat was being inefficient due excessive fuel contaminants entering catalyst because oxygen sensor is switching too slow or there is no activity, wow that's alot of info, right? The shop then says we need further diagnostic time to verify why the oxygen sensor is slow before installing a new one (usually a good shop will document everything performed in diagnosis), shop ask for additional 1 hour labor to perform vacuum leak inspection using a smoke machine to weed out any possible leaks, by this time you might be getting it. This $100 off he gave you is now costing above $150 just for diagnosis, don't forget the repair. So in a nutshell, their are 2 smogs here, the seller even though he just smogged it yesterday for renewal purpose must now smog it for change of ownership which the DMV will REQUIRE!!!!! The state of CA is strict when it comes to emission testing, emission failure's, and has no mercy on the poor buyer which if he wants to drive the car will need to get a circulating permit at $50 per day! Onetime only, or if it was at auction the car was purchased,for some reason they will allow you to get a permit for 4 months at a time for $400. Bottom line is the state needs to make it an official LAW and alert all consumers of the scams buyers may face when they purchase without an inspection for transfer of ownership. Oh wait they cant do that they will loose too much money gained from having to smog your car all over again!!!!!!!!
My '97 Ford E-150 Van Failed California Smog Test.?
The Testing Facility Gave It A Fault Code: Po455 Evap Ctrl System Gross Leak Detected. He Said The Code Meant There Was A Leak In The Filler Pipe Area Or Possibly The Tank. I Then Took It To A Smog Repair Shop That Suspects The Problem To Have Been A Locking Gas Cap That I'Ve Been Having Problems Removing And Re-Installing At Fill Ups. He Said It Was Very Possible The Cap Wasn'T Sealed Correctly Which Triggered The &Quot;Service Engine Soon&Quot; Light To Go On. So When The Smog Test Was Made The Engine'S Computer Communicated That There Was A &Quot;Gross Leak&Quot; In The Evaporation Control System. He Then Connected An Electronic Gadget To My Electrical System And Turned The &Quot;Service Engine Soon&Quot; Light Off. Then He Told Me To Drive It For Up To 80 Miles To See If The Light Comes Back On Again. Since Then I Put Almost 200 Miles On It And The Light Hasn'T Come Back On. I Just Removed The Gas Cap And Applied Air Pressure To The Filler Pipe And Tank And There Doesn'T Appear To Be Any Air Leaking Out In Spite Of The Fact That There Is A Rubber Hose Coming From The Front Of The Tank And Goes To The Top Of The Filler Pipe But Isn'T Connected To Anything (Another Hose Coming From The Rear Of The Tank Goes To The Same Area But Is Connected To The Top Of The Filler Pipe). By The Way, I Pointed This Out To The Smog Repair Guy And He Couldn'T Find A Place Where It Was Supposed To Connect To. Is This Common For This Vehicle? I Should Mention Also That The Smog Test Guy Said He Could Run A &Quot;Complete System Diagnosis&Quot; And Determine The Exact Problem For $149.00 To Which I Declined In Favor Of Further Investigation. I'M Not So Sure That The Smog Test Guy, Who, In The Last Part Of His Check, Had Removed The Gas Cap And Apparently Hooked Up Some Kind Of Vacuum Or Pressure Device To The Top Of The Filler Pipe, Might Have Suspected The Same And May Have Had His Attention Focused More Than Just A Little Bit On The $149.00 And Another $40.00 Retest. With The Info I Provided Does It Seem Logical To You That The Gas Cap Not Sealing Properly Is The Sole Cause Of This Problem? Also Any Recommendation On How To Proceed From Here Would Be Appreciated.
Simi Valley, Ca
Change your smog check station. I don't even START testing a car at my shop if the MIL(check Engine light or in your case the light that looks like a little engine) is on...Unless the customer knows the car/truck will fail and wan't me to test it anyway.
But then again my guess is that you went to a smog Test and REPAIR shop and they make money on repairs (lowball prices at times just to get the cars in).... where at a Test Only they don't make money on repairs so they have no incentive to fail your car. (and most offer Free Restes)
On a 1997 we (by direction to ALL smog shops from the State of CA) DO NOT do a LPET (Low Pressure Evaporative Test) on the gas tank (system) a red hose connected to your gas tank. However we DO test the Gas cap... a hose from our test bench to your gas cap.
Your hoses from/to the filler neck tank:
1. Big Filler hose
2. Filler neck drain
3. Filler neck Vent (Other wise you could never get fuel into the tank... fuel in ---Air needs to come out.
If you have been having problems with your locking cap then that is probably the problem. Should have solved the KNOWN problem prior to searching spending time looking for other ones. Get yourself a QUALITY new gas cap. (The single highest failing item I see at my shop is that silly three tab gas cap that Ford used in those model years.. and I test them 3-4 times each before telling the customer their gas cap is failing).
Yes it is VERY likely that the missing (same as one that does not fit correctly to the system that tests it) would cause a Gross Evap Leak. Only cause ?.... Maybe since you have driven it 100's of miles since reseting the light and it hasn't come back on --- after REPLACING the cap I hope --- but remember that part of your cars system is only tested with the fuel tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full over and under the Evap test is usualy not run.
Confused about your smog Test and Smog Repair differentiation. A smog test/check/inspection station can only have one of two licenses. One that allows them to do TESTs only (And that $149.00 fee would be considered a Diagnosis and not allowed at a Test Only shop (and is high $.$$), Or a smog Check/Test/Inpsection AND Repair license that allows them to do repairs and Testing. (There are a FEW gold shield shops that can do both Test Only and Repairs)
Suggest you use YELP.com and find a new Test Only shop that is highly rated that offers a Free Retest (My fee for your truck would have been $50.00 for the inspection/test/check, + $8.25 for the certificate (WHEN you passed) and would have included a Free Retest... But $65.00 would be in the normal range too. ($15.00 off if you remove the doghouse engine cover)
Are Their Head Gasket Problems With 03 And Newer 4Runners?
I Want To Buy An 03 To Approx. 05 Toyota 4Runner, But I Ran Across A Site Where People Were Talking About Head Gasket Problems With Some 4Runners. I Thought That Problem Was Resolved After The 3.0 Engine Was Replaced With The Newer 3.4 In The 07 And Up. I Love The Look Of The 2004 4Runner Limited, But Now I'M Leery About Buying One, I Had An 1994 That Had A Blown Head Gasket And Do Not Want To Go Through That Again, I Was Sick About It Because I Really Liked The Vehicle. Any Advice Would Be Helpful. Thanks
normally the only reason this happens and especially on that vehicle is when they get hot,on that vehicle you have to shut it off and get it towed and fix it fast,normally a small problem as a thermostat,drive that vehicle hot to long,cracked head
My 86 Ford Bronco Keeps Over Heating And Losing Oil?
My 86 Ford Bronco Keeps Over Heating And Losing All The Oil... It Happen A Little While Ago And I Change The Lower Radiotor Tube Cuz It Had A Leak And Everything Was Good Then Outta No Where It Blew Up N Started Smoking N Heated Up Fast And All The Oil Leaked Out Somehow? If Anyone Can Help I Really Need It?
any oil in the rad might just be an oil cooler ( if it has one)
if its smoking its burning it, might be a head gasket, with the engine running ( but not hot!) open the rad cover, open it then start the engine is safest, if you see bubbles its likely a head gasket, but could be a crack
also could be rings etc, take the drain plug out, and check for metal in on the magnetic plug/in the pan with your finger, could be a broken oil ring
if still nothing try a compression test
could be many things but start with the easiest ones to check 1st and work your way up