Should You Leave Auto Repair To Your Professional Mechanic? Every car fails
eventually, and that's an undeniable fact! Having said that, some cars are quite likely going to malfunctioning than the others, of course, if you're within a tough situation, you may be left to wonder: should I attempt a DIY auto repair or engage a mechanic? An oil change is a superb demonstration of something even a novice driver could do, but if you have problems beyond that, acquiring a car mechanic to perform the repairs can be quite a good idea and here's why: Experience You possess basically no idea what you're doing and you might actually wind up making things worse. Even when you think that you're a DIY savvy person, you might find yourself causing other places of your own car to malfunction. Not forgetting, you only have no idea what's actually wrong together with your vehicle, if you do not bring it apart and hope with all your might you can put it back together again. A vehicle mechanic has been accomplishing this for several years and then he can certainly diagnose and repair any difficulty your vehicle could be facing. Right Tools You require the proper tools and a decent workspace to start out working on auto repair. Unless you happen to have a complete garage with equipment and tools dedicated to this task, you will need to spend money on the desired tools to solve your vehicle. Obviously, without prior experience coping with car repair, you might not know what you ought to purchase, not forgetting, you may never start using these tools again. Getting a professional car mechanic can eliminate the necessity for one to invest money into tools and equipment you're unlikely to work with again while he will already have everything readily available. Speedy Repairs If you just have one household car you need to use to get to work towards time, you need to make sure your car is fixed as soon as possible. Obviously, in the event you attempt a DIY repair, things can go wrong, and in many cases when they don't, it can take you plenty more hours to have your vehicle running than if you decide to employ a mechanic. You could have your car or truck from commission for a day or two when taking it to a mechanic, but it sure beats not being able to go to work! Spend Less Perhaps one of the most compelling excellent reasons to drop your car or truck off for repair with a mechanic's is to save money. You won't need to invest money into tools, equipment, and auto parts you may never need. In addition to, while your automobile is out of commission, you might have to rent a car or take the bus-- costing you more cash! Hiring a mechanic for auto repair could help you save in the long haul, specifically if you take into consideration that a job well done can prolong the lifestyle of your own vehicle. Next time your car offers you trouble, why not stop at a car mechanic's?
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FAQ's Auto Repair
Could There Be More Problems With This Ford Bronco Top Ten Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory?
Tomorrow I Am Going To Look At A 1989 Ford Bronco That A Guy Was Advertising On Craigslist. I Called Him And He Told Me That The Only Problems It Has Are A Mistimed Ignition And It Needs A Couple Freeze Plugs Replaced.
Basically I Need To Know If It Could Possibly Have Worse Problems That He Is Trying To Pass Off As These Less Serious Ones. What Should I Look For?
Yes, very well have more problems, with ign off as he claims could use this to hid compression problems and timing chain issues, freeze plugs could hide head gaskets or other things that make it overheat. But he could be shooting straight, most times people selling cars don't. Best Ten Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory
How Do You Figure The Cubic Inches Of My Engine?
Ok I Have A Ford 460 In My 79 Bronco But Its Built Pretty Good And After A Recent Head Gasket Replacement I Checked The Bore And It Turns Out Its Bored 30 Over So What Does That Make My Cubic Inches Best Ten Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory?
that's why the online calculators are so nice..
Volume equals pie times the Radius squared times the stroke times the number of cylinders equals 467 rounded off. Top Ten Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory
that's using 0.030" over
Ford Contour 99, Runs Very Bad. Most Popular Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory?
I Have A Ford Contour 99, I Did Replace The Timing Belt, Idler Pulley, And Timing Adjuster. Now After That It Run A Little Rough, So I Decided To Use For Some Time, Now Is Worse, I Did Re-Set Timing Following Ford Instructions, 1 And 4 Cylinder At Tdc, Cams Aligned With Flat Steel Tool, Cam Sprockets Loose, Timing Belt Tight All The Way Around, Re- Started And Runs Very Bad, Shakes, Misses, All Kinds Of Things. No Smoke At Tailpipe, Then I Checked The Compression, It Was Very Low, Almost Cero.. My Question Is: Can My Timing Be Off To Not Having Any Compression At All≫? Or Could I Have A Burned Valve, Or A Piston/Valve Collision, (Acording To Ford,Is Not An Interference Engine,[2.0 Liter] ) Any Suggestions≫?, I Almost Throwing My Towel, And Don'T Know What Can Be The Problem.. Did Replace Sparks, Coil, Sparks Cables, Checked My Injectors, No Vacuum Leaks, Thank You For Any Good Help.
A stock Zetec is non-interference unless it's a SVT or has been modified (high lift cam). If the timing is way off, then you won't have compression, but it sounds like you are doing it right from what I can gather. However, in some cases non-interference engines can get bent values due to carbon buildup on top of the cylinders, especially in the valve reliefs (reduces valve clearance). There are some rare cases of this occurring with the Zetec.
To test the valves, you can do a leak down test on the cylinders. Basically you shoot compressed air in through the spark plug and see if the pressure in the cylinder drops. In your case, if you have bent valves you should be able to hear a decent "hiss" in the intake or exhaust. You can also try testing the compression with the timing belt off and both valves closed (rotate camshafts). Most Popular Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory
Burnt valves are also a possibility, but you would have noticed this before the belt change. It is also unlikely all four would be burnt and giving zero compression.
Just to be sure, cylinder #1 is the one closest to the timing belt. Also, did you double check your plug wiring? Try to be as precise as possible with TDC in #1, otherwise you could be a tooth or two off.
You said no vacuum leaks, but did you check the EGR, IAC, and MAF? These can all cause roughness.
If all else fails, you can pull the head and see what it looks like inside. Might as well replace the head gasket (order after you see the condition of the valves).
Here is another how to, maybe a different source will help: http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread...
Hope you can figure it out! Most Popular Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory
Car Issues...Blown Head Gasket And Antifreeze Leak Best Ten Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory?
I Have A 1997 Ford Contour Gl With Almost 112Kmi. Last Week When I Was Driving The Car At 55 Mph The Car Started Lurching Forward...Kind Of Like How It Feels When You Just Tap On The Accelerator And It Jumps Forward. I Pulled Over And Turned The Car Off To Check For Leaks And A Flat Tire, Nothing Happened. Went To Turn The Car Back On (Worked) And Started Driving Home...Which Was About Half A Mile. As Soon As I Started Driving (20 Mph) The Front Of The Car Started To Shake Really Bad (Is Not The Alignment), Made Groaning And Whaling Noises, And Would Not Accelerate Above 25 Mph. When I Finally Made It Home I Turned Off The Engine, Went To Call My Mechanic, And He Told Me To Turn It Back On But It Wouldn'T Start. I Have To Wait Two More Days Until I Can Get The Car Looked At But In The Mean Time I Tried To Jump Start The Car To See If It Would Start. It Took About 3 Tries And Then Just Letting The Car Charge From My Moms Car And It Finally Worked. Now The Car'S Exhaust Is Spewing White And The Antifreeze Is Brown/Rusted But Not Too Low. It'S Also Idling Really Rough And Over Heats Within A Minute. I Have Never Missed An Oil Change, So That Isn'T The Issue. I Also Have An Over Heating Issue And My Temp Gauge Isn'T Registering It (I Think That'S Just Broken). I Just Want To Know If Anyone Else Has Had This Issue Or Knows What It Could Be. I'Ve Been Told It May Be A Blow Gasket And An Antifreeze Leak Into The Oil. Wanted Some Opinions Before It Gets Looked At In 2 Days. I'M Trying To Figure Out If It Is Too Bad A Fix And If I Should Just Get A New Car. Please Do Not Answer This If You Have No Intention On Giving Me Advise For What May Be Wrong With The Car.
yes sounds like the head gasket but also could be the intaake manifold gasket and my advise is to buy a new car Best Ten Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory
What Should I Do With My Car Best Ten Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory?
I Asked A Question Not Too Long Ago About My 1997 Ford Aspire With 121K Miles, Which Had A Misfire In One Of Its Cylinders When I Bought It. Now I'Ve Got Several More Questions. Here'S The Story:
I Took It To A Reputable Repair Shop And Had It Diagnosed The Other Day As A Pretty Serious Problem, Which Was Most Likely A Malfunctioning Valve, Though They Would Have To Take Apart The Cylinder Head To Confirm That. They Based Their Evaluation On The Fact That The 3 Healthy Cylinders Were Putting Out 170 Pounds Of Pressure While The Other Was Putting Out 80 Pounds. When I Talked To Other Mechanics They Said They Would Expect A Valve Problem Too With Those Numbers. I Have An Appointment Set For Monday Morning To Get The Cylinder Head Taken Off So That The Mechanics Can Find Out What The Problem Is Exactly.
The Previous Owner Knew For Some Time That The Misfire Existed, But He Assumed That It Was Because Of The Spark Plugs, Which Are Pretty Worn. After I Bought The Car And Drove It Around A Bit, But Before I Took It To The Mechanic, The Check Engine Light Came On And Remained On Until Earlier Today When It Shut Off.
Here Are My Questions:
1) Is There Any Real Chance That The Compression Differentials That The Mechanic Observed Were Caused By Something Simple Like A Spark Plug Malfunction, Which Got Worse During The Time That The Check Engine Light Was On? I Was Planning To Replace My Front Brakes Myself This Weekend Anyway So That It Could Pass The State Inspection. If Changing Out The Plugs And Wires Might Solve The Problem I Might Want To Give It A Try.
2) Is $800 To $1200 A Reasonable Amount To Charge For Rebuilding The Top Half Of An Engine? The Price May Or May Not Include Replacing The Timing Belt, Which I Think Should Be Right In The Area Anyway. The Belt Was Replaced 20,000 Miles Ago, But The Engine Has Been Leaking Oil For A While So There'S A Decent Chance It'S Been Splashed And Weakened.
3) Do Spark Plugs And Wires Normally Get Changed Out In A Rebuild Like This? I Imagine They Would Be Unless The Customer Asked, But I'M No Mechanic.
I Really Appreciate The Time You Guys On This Side Of Yahoo Answers Put In. Thanks For Reading Through My Questions.
When they do a compression check, they remove the spark plugs and check the compression that each piston is putting out. So, the plugs are not installed at the time.
Check around various other places for cost of rebuilding the top half, and also, maybe try another shop to get their diagnosis. I do not know what average cost would be. That price quoted would be about 10 to 14 hours labor, at $85 an hour avg. Plus the cost of gaskets, parts, etc. Top Ten Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory
Spark plugs should probably be changed out for new ones, during a rebuild. Wires, depends on how good they are now. Four good plugs run you about $10 or so. And depending on how old and worn the other parts are, like the water pump, it might be a good idea to replace it, if it is original.
But get a second opinion on repairs, unless it is too costly to do so. I know they charge for these diagnoses. 10 Best Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory
Standard Industrial Classification Code Best Ten Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory?
What Is An Automotive Repair Sic Code?
811111 General Automotive Repair
"This U.S. industry comprises establishments primarily engaged in providing (1) a wide range of mechanical and electrical repair and maintenance services for automotive vehicles, such as passenger cars, trucks, and vans, and all trailers or (2) engine repair and replacement." 10 Best Auto Care Near Me in Payson Directory
Toyota 3Vz-E Mpg? Pros/Cons?
I Was Wondering What Mpg You Got For Your 3Vz-E With What Type Of Car.
I Will Be Buying A 1988 Toyota Pickup With A 3Vz-E.
What Are The Pros And Cons Of Having This Engine?
What Should I Check In The Engine When I'M About To Purchase This Truck? It'S My First Car I'M Getting. Thanks!
4x4 or 4x2? auto or 5sp?
toy *did* have bad head gaskets, non asbestos formula (3VZ-E only). but darn near all have been addressed. since this one is running, i assume it's also been done.
that can be verified by calling any toy service department w/the vin. the recall doesn't follow owners. it follows vin's.
there was also a recall on the relay/tie rods. i know that was app for the 4x4s. not sure bout the 4x2s. again, if you call, they will tell you all!
top on the list is a *receipt* for last timing belt and water pump change. to have a belt changed costs around 300-400 in labor alone. since the water pump is a consumable item, and it's under the timing gear, it's in one best interest to have the water pump changed at belt change needed or not.
interval for timing belt change is 90,000 or 72 months. most don't go by the 72 months. i don't. it's a non-interference type engine so there is some wriggle room safety there. mine has well over 100k on the belt. but i do risk a towing bill if it does fail.
because the water pump is under the t-gear, coolant should be pristine. direct indicator of coolant system.
because of the costs of timing belt and water pump replacement, w/o receipts, that would be a big bargaining chip to lower the price. receipts are a must as anyone can say anything to sell a vehicle.
other than that, just the typical cautions when buying any vehicle.
if it's a 4x4, annual dis-assembly, cleaning, re-grease of the hubs would be good to do.
the 3VZ-E is not found in any sedan. only trucks. the sister engine is the 3VZ-FE found in camrys.
difference between the two are two valves per cyl on the Es, and three valves per cyl on the FEs. different cam profile. two valves present a better low end flow and torque curve. three valves per cyl are better for higher rpms.
What Does Smog Check Mean When Buying A Car ? I Am New To Cars?
I Would Like To Know What &Quot; Smog Check&Quot; Means On Used Car Sales And How Much Of An Importance Is It And Why ?
Thanks A Lot !!!
Currently, smog inspections are required for all vehicles except diesel powered vehicles manufactured prior to 1998 or with a Gross Vehicle Weight (GVWR) of more than 14,000 lbs, electric, natural gas powered vehicles over 14,000 lbs, hybrids, motorcycles, trailers, or gasoline powered vehicles 1975 and older.
Vehicles registered in areas subject to the biennial smog certification program are required to submit evidence of a smog certification every other renewal period. Owners of vehicles six or less model years old will pay an annual smog abatement fee for the first six registration years instead of being required to provide a biennial smog certification. The registration renewal notice mailed to you by the department will indicate if a smog certification is required. If a smog certification is required and you have not had a smog inspection, you may still pay your registration fees to avoid any late fees. However, you will not receive your new registration or year sticker until the smog information has been received by DMV.
NOTE: Upon initial registration, nonresident, diesel powered vehicles manufactured in 1998 or after with a (GVWR) rating of no more than 14,000 lbs, and specially constructed vehicles 1976 and newer require smog certification. The six or less model years old rule does not apply to these vehicles.
When you transfer a vehicle that is four or less model years old a smog certification is not required. (Determine the oldest-qualifying year model by subtracting three from the current year.) The four or less model years old rule does not apply to diesel powered vehicles. A smog transfer fee will be collected from the new owner . When a vehicle is more than four model years old, a seller must provide evidence of a current smog certification except when one of the following occurs:
The transfer occurs between a spouse, domestic partner, sibling, child, parent, grandparent, or grandchild.
A biennial smog certification was submitted to DMV within 90 days prior to the vehicle transfer date (a vehicle inspection report may be required for proof of certification).
Smog certifications are good for 90 days from the date of issuance.
When a car is sold, who is responsible for the inspection?
The seller is required to provide the buyer with a valid smog inspection certification at the time of the sale or transfer. Smog certifications are good for 90 days from the date of issuance.
The inspection is not required on a transfer if a biennial smog certification was submitted to DMV within 90 days prior to the vehicle transfer date (a vehicle inspection report may be required for proof of certification).
NOTE: Smog certifications are not required for transfers that occur for a gasoline powered motor vehicle that is four or less model years old. (Determine the oldest-qualifying year model by subtracting three from the current year) the four or less model years old rule does not apply to diesel powered vehicles. A smog transfer fee will be collected from the new owner.
Does The Car Seller Have To Get A Smog Certificate For The Buyer In California?
I Thought Cars Had To Be Tested Before Changing Title In California But My Friend Just Bought A Car That Wasn'T, Now He Has A Huge Problem, Because The Car Didn'T Pass. The Seller Refuses To Take It Back.
Yes, to protect you from buying a car that will drain your pocket. Example A; $3500 car, you like it, the seller has recently smogged vehicle and new tags, great, bad side is it cost him $1000 to get the car too pass and now is wondering if the car will pass next year, he decides to sell now, offering a discounted $100 if you accept to smog vehicle WHEN YOU CAN. Great, you think, not, smog cost $40, vehicle fails and now a diagnosis is required to find the solution $75 to start, the shop calls back to tell you they have found the catalytic converter is not efficient or below threshold, great you think! Why we just need a cat converter,($300minimum in the state of cali), no not yet, turns out the cat was being inefficient due excessive fuel contaminants entering catalyst because oxygen sensor is switching too slow or there is no activity, wow that's alot of info, right? The shop then says we need further diagnostic time to verify why the oxygen sensor is slow before installing a new one (usually a good shop will document everything performed in diagnosis), shop ask for additional 1 hour labor to perform vacuum leak inspection using a smoke machine to weed out any possible leaks, by this time you might be getting it. This $100 off he gave you is now costing above $150 just for diagnosis, don't forget the repair. So in a nutshell, their are 2 smogs here, the seller even though he just smogged it yesterday for renewal purpose must now smog it for change of ownership which the DMV will REQUIRE!!!!! The state of CA is strict when it comes to emission testing, emission failure's, and has no mercy on the poor buyer which if he wants to drive the car will need to get a circulating permit at $50 per day! Onetime only, or if it was at auction the car was purchased,for some reason they will allow you to get a permit for 4 months at a time for $400. Bottom line is the state needs to make it an official LAW and alert all consumers of the scams buyers may face when they purchase without an inspection for transfer of ownership. Oh wait they cant do that they will loose too much money gained from having to smog your car all over again!!!!!!!!
My '97 Ford E-150 Van Failed California Smog Test.?
The Testing Facility Gave It A Fault Code: Po455 Evap Ctrl System Gross Leak Detected. He Said The Code Meant There Was A Leak In The Filler Pipe Area Or Possibly The Tank. I Then Took It To A Smog Repair Shop That Suspects The Problem To Have Been A Locking Gas Cap That I'Ve Been Having Problems Removing And Re-Installing At Fill Ups. He Said It Was Very Possible The Cap Wasn'T Sealed Correctly Which Triggered The &Quot;Service Engine Soon&Quot; Light To Go On. So When The Smog Test Was Made The Engine'S Computer Communicated That There Was A &Quot;Gross Leak&Quot; In The Evaporation Control System. He Then Connected An Electronic Gadget To My Electrical System And Turned The &Quot;Service Engine Soon&Quot; Light Off. Then He Told Me To Drive It For Up To 80 Miles To See If The Light Comes Back On Again. Since Then I Put Almost 200 Miles On It And The Light Hasn'T Come Back On. I Just Removed The Gas Cap And Applied Air Pressure To The Filler Pipe And Tank And There Doesn'T Appear To Be Any Air Leaking Out In Spite Of The Fact That There Is A Rubber Hose Coming From The Front Of The Tank And Goes To The Top Of The Filler Pipe But Isn'T Connected To Anything (Another Hose Coming From The Rear Of The Tank Goes To The Same Area But Is Connected To The Top Of The Filler Pipe). By The Way, I Pointed This Out To The Smog Repair Guy And He Couldn'T Find A Place Where It Was Supposed To Connect To. Is This Common For This Vehicle? I Should Mention Also That The Smog Test Guy Said He Could Run A &Quot;Complete System Diagnosis&Quot; And Determine The Exact Problem For $149.00 To Which I Declined In Favor Of Further Investigation. I'M Not So Sure That The Smog Test Guy, Who, In The Last Part Of His Check, Had Removed The Gas Cap And Apparently Hooked Up Some Kind Of Vacuum Or Pressure Device To The Top Of The Filler Pipe, Might Have Suspected The Same And May Have Had His Attention Focused More Than Just A Little Bit On The $149.00 And Another $40.00 Retest. With The Info I Provided Does It Seem Logical To You That The Gas Cap Not Sealing Properly Is The Sole Cause Of This Problem? Also Any Recommendation On How To Proceed From Here Would Be Appreciated.
Simi Valley, Ca
Change your smog check station. I don't even START testing a car at my shop if the MIL(check Engine light or in your case the light that looks like a little engine) is on...Unless the customer knows the car/truck will fail and wan't me to test it anyway.
But then again my guess is that you went to a smog Test and REPAIR shop and they make money on repairs (lowball prices at times just to get the cars in).... where at a Test Only they don't make money on repairs so they have no incentive to fail your car. (and most offer Free Restes)
On a 1997 we (by direction to ALL smog shops from the State of CA) DO NOT do a LPET (Low Pressure Evaporative Test) on the gas tank (system) a red hose connected to your gas tank. However we DO test the Gas cap... a hose from our test bench to your gas cap.
Your hoses from/to the filler neck tank:
1. Big Filler hose
2. Filler neck drain
3. Filler neck Vent (Other wise you could never get fuel into the tank... fuel in ---Air needs to come out.
If you have been having problems with your locking cap then that is probably the problem. Should have solved the KNOWN problem prior to searching spending time looking for other ones. Get yourself a QUALITY new gas cap. (The single highest failing item I see at my shop is that silly three tab gas cap that Ford used in those model years.. and I test them 3-4 times each before telling the customer their gas cap is failing).
Yes it is VERY likely that the missing (same as one that does not fit correctly to the system that tests it) would cause a Gross Evap Leak. Only cause ?.... Maybe since you have driven it 100's of miles since reseting the light and it hasn't come back on --- after REPLACING the cap I hope --- but remember that part of your cars system is only tested with the fuel tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full over and under the Evap test is usualy not run.
Confused about your smog Test and Smog Repair differentiation. A smog test/check/inspection station can only have one of two licenses. One that allows them to do TESTs only (And that $149.00 fee would be considered a Diagnosis and not allowed at a Test Only shop (and is high $.$$), Or a smog Check/Test/Inpsection AND Repair license that allows them to do repairs and Testing. (There are a FEW gold shield shops that can do both Test Only and Repairs)
Suggest you use YELP.com and find a new Test Only shop that is highly rated that offers a Free Retest (My fee for your truck would have been $50.00 for the inspection/test/check, + $8.25 for the certificate (WHEN you passed) and would have included a Free Retest... But $65.00 would be in the normal range too. ($15.00 off if you remove the doghouse engine cover)
Are Their Head Gasket Problems With 03 And Newer 4Runners?
I Want To Buy An 03 To Approx. 05 Toyota 4Runner, But I Ran Across A Site Where People Were Talking About Head Gasket Problems With Some 4Runners. I Thought That Problem Was Resolved After The 3.0 Engine Was Replaced With The Newer 3.4 In The 07 And Up. I Love The Look Of The 2004 4Runner Limited, But Now I'M Leery About Buying One, I Had An 1994 That Had A Blown Head Gasket And Do Not Want To Go Through That Again, I Was Sick About It Because I Really Liked The Vehicle. Any Advice Would Be Helpful. Thanks
normally the only reason this happens and especially on that vehicle is when they get hot,on that vehicle you have to shut it off and get it towed and fix it fast,normally a small problem as a thermostat,drive that vehicle hot to long,cracked head
My 86 Ford Bronco Keeps Over Heating And Losing Oil?
My 86 Ford Bronco Keeps Over Heating And Losing All The Oil... It Happen A Little While Ago And I Change The Lower Radiotor Tube Cuz It Had A Leak And Everything Was Good Then Outta No Where It Blew Up N Started Smoking N Heated Up Fast And All The Oil Leaked Out Somehow? If Anyone Can Help I Really Need It?
any oil in the rad might just be an oil cooler ( if it has one)
if its smoking its burning it, might be a head gasket, with the engine running ( but not hot!) open the rad cover, open it then start the engine is safest, if you see bubbles its likely a head gasket, but could be a crack
also could be rings etc, take the drain plug out, and check for metal in on the magnetic plug/in the pan with your finger, could be a broken oil ring
if still nothing try a compression test
could be many things but start with the easiest ones to check 1st and work your way up