Issues To Consider About Auto Repair It may be a very stressful situation when worrying in regards to what company to choose
for the auto repair, but providing you know how to make this process it might be quite easy. Every company will claim that they have the most effective mechanics and offer the lowest prices, but clearly that is untrue. The easiest way to know that you are currently having the best repair for your lowest price would be to spend some time to do your research. The first task to finding the right company is to consider the reviews that have been left by past customers. Chances are that you may have more mechanics in your area than you may count. It can be hard to select which companies to even compare to others. Choose a site that gives you the option to see their reviews at the general star level. Following that you should be able to discover the top 10 companies in your neighborhood. You then should make time to browse the reviews which have been left by their past clients. Recognize that there definitely will be negative reviews, regardless how good the business is, however the vast majority needs to be positive. Seek out negative reviews that share the identical issues, such as the need to bring their vehicle back in a brief timeframe because it actually had not been yet fixed. Any shop should e able to diagnose and fix a car the very first time. From the initial list of 10 you will be able to narrow it down to 3 different businesses that are the very best. After that you can call each and get when they are willing to provide you with a quote totally free. When they have made your top 3 list they will be a lot more than willing to do so. That way you can really know what they believe to be the issue along with the things they think it can cost. When you have quotes coming from all 3 you may then decide who to use. It might be tempting to determine simply in accordance with the cost, but exactly how they treat you need to be looked at. Customer service is vital in relation to auto repair. Should they be happy to explain everything for you and demonstrate that they feel that you have value they then are truly interested in obtaining your business and keeping it. Think of every aspect of your interaction prior to making a determination about which mechanic you think is advisable to service your vehicle. Every auto mechanic will claim that they have the ideal costs, from parts to service, but the fact is that they all differ in many ways. Take the time to investigate how others have felt with regards to their service, what their prices are and the way you personally felt whenever you visited their shop. This really is the easiest method to get a quality auto mechanic shop which will suit your needs and expectations.
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FAQ's Auto Repair
Could There Be More Problems With This Ford Bronco Most Popular Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory?
Tomorrow I Am Going To Look At A 1989 Ford Bronco That A Guy Was Advertising On Craigslist. I Called Him And He Told Me That The Only Problems It Has Are A Mistimed Ignition And It Needs A Couple Freeze Plugs Replaced.
Basically I Need To Know If It Could Possibly Have Worse Problems That He Is Trying To Pass Off As These Less Serious Ones. What Should I Look For?
Yes, very well have more problems, with ign off as he claims could use this to hid compression problems and timing chain issues, freeze plugs could hide head gaskets or other things that make it overheat. But he could be shooting straight, most times people selling cars don't. Most Popular Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory
How Do You Figure The Cubic Inches Of My Engine?
Ok I Have A Ford 460 In My 79 Bronco But Its Built Pretty Good And After A Recent Head Gasket Replacement I Checked The Bore And It Turns Out Its Bored 30 Over So What Does That Make My Cubic Inches Best Ten Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory?
that's why the online calculators are so nice..
Volume equals pie times the Radius squared times the stroke times the number of cylinders equals 467 rounded off. Top Ten Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory
that's using 0.030" over
Ford Contour 99, Runs Very Bad. Best Ten Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory?
I Have A Ford Contour 99, I Did Replace The Timing Belt, Idler Pulley, And Timing Adjuster. Now After That It Run A Little Rough, So I Decided To Use For Some Time, Now Is Worse, I Did Re-Set Timing Following Ford Instructions, 1 And 4 Cylinder At Tdc, Cams Aligned With Flat Steel Tool, Cam Sprockets Loose, Timing Belt Tight All The Way Around, Re- Started And Runs Very Bad, Shakes, Misses, All Kinds Of Things. No Smoke At Tailpipe, Then I Checked The Compression, It Was Very Low, Almost Cero.. My Question Is: Can My Timing Be Off To Not Having Any Compression At All≫? Or Could I Have A Burned Valve, Or A Piston/Valve Collision, (Acording To Ford,Is Not An Interference Engine,[2.0 Liter] ) Any Suggestions≫?, I Almost Throwing My Towel, And Don'T Know What Can Be The Problem.. Did Replace Sparks, Coil, Sparks Cables, Checked My Injectors, No Vacuum Leaks, Thank You For Any Good Help.
A stock Zetec is non-interference unless it's a SVT or has been modified (high lift cam). If the timing is way off, then you won't have compression, but it sounds like you are doing it right from what I can gather. However, in some cases non-interference engines can get bent values due to carbon buildup on top of the cylinders, especially in the valve reliefs (reduces valve clearance). There are some rare cases of this occurring with the Zetec.
To test the valves, you can do a leak down test on the cylinders. Basically you shoot compressed air in through the spark plug and see if the pressure in the cylinder drops. In your case, if you have bent valves you should be able to hear a decent "hiss" in the intake or exhaust. You can also try testing the compression with the timing belt off and both valves closed (rotate camshafts). Most Popular Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory
Burnt valves are also a possibility, but you would have noticed this before the belt change. It is also unlikely all four would be burnt and giving zero compression.
Just to be sure, cylinder #1 is the one closest to the timing belt. Also, did you double check your plug wiring? Try to be as precise as possible with TDC in #1, otherwise you could be a tooth or two off.
You said no vacuum leaks, but did you check the EGR, IAC, and MAF? These can all cause roughness.
If all else fails, you can pull the head and see what it looks like inside. Might as well replace the head gasket (order after you see the condition of the valves).
Here is another how to, maybe a different source will help: http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread...
Hope you can figure it out! Best Ten Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory
Car Issues...Blown Head Gasket And Antifreeze Leak 10 Best Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory?
I Have A 1997 Ford Contour Gl With Almost 112Kmi. Last Week When I Was Driving The Car At 55 Mph The Car Started Lurching Forward...Kind Of Like How It Feels When You Just Tap On The Accelerator And It Jumps Forward. I Pulled Over And Turned The Car Off To Check For Leaks And A Flat Tire, Nothing Happened. Went To Turn The Car Back On (Worked) And Started Driving Home...Which Was About Half A Mile. As Soon As I Started Driving (20 Mph) The Front Of The Car Started To Shake Really Bad (Is Not The Alignment), Made Groaning And Whaling Noises, And Would Not Accelerate Above 25 Mph. When I Finally Made It Home I Turned Off The Engine, Went To Call My Mechanic, And He Told Me To Turn It Back On But It Wouldn'T Start. I Have To Wait Two More Days Until I Can Get The Car Looked At But In The Mean Time I Tried To Jump Start The Car To See If It Would Start. It Took About 3 Tries And Then Just Letting The Car Charge From My Moms Car And It Finally Worked. Now The Car'S Exhaust Is Spewing White And The Antifreeze Is Brown/Rusted But Not Too Low. It'S Also Idling Really Rough And Over Heats Within A Minute. I Have Never Missed An Oil Change, So That Isn'T The Issue. I Also Have An Over Heating Issue And My Temp Gauge Isn'T Registering It (I Think That'S Just Broken). I Just Want To Know If Anyone Else Has Had This Issue Or Knows What It Could Be. I'Ve Been Told It May Be A Blow Gasket And An Antifreeze Leak Into The Oil. Wanted Some Opinions Before It Gets Looked At In 2 Days. I'M Trying To Figure Out If It Is Too Bad A Fix And If I Should Just Get A New Car. Please Do Not Answer This If You Have No Intention On Giving Me Advise For What May Be Wrong With The Car.
yes sounds like the head gasket but also could be the intaake manifold gasket and my advise is to buy a new car Most Popular Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory
What Should I Do With My Car Best Ten Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory?
I Asked A Question Not Too Long Ago About My 1997 Ford Aspire With 121K Miles, Which Had A Misfire In One Of Its Cylinders When I Bought It. Now I'Ve Got Several More Questions. Here'S The Story:
I Took It To A Reputable Repair Shop And Had It Diagnosed The Other Day As A Pretty Serious Problem, Which Was Most Likely A Malfunctioning Valve, Though They Would Have To Take Apart The Cylinder Head To Confirm That. They Based Their Evaluation On The Fact That The 3 Healthy Cylinders Were Putting Out 170 Pounds Of Pressure While The Other Was Putting Out 80 Pounds. When I Talked To Other Mechanics They Said They Would Expect A Valve Problem Too With Those Numbers. I Have An Appointment Set For Monday Morning To Get The Cylinder Head Taken Off So That The Mechanics Can Find Out What The Problem Is Exactly.
The Previous Owner Knew For Some Time That The Misfire Existed, But He Assumed That It Was Because Of The Spark Plugs, Which Are Pretty Worn. After I Bought The Car And Drove It Around A Bit, But Before I Took It To The Mechanic, The Check Engine Light Came On And Remained On Until Earlier Today When It Shut Off.
Here Are My Questions:
1) Is There Any Real Chance That The Compression Differentials That The Mechanic Observed Were Caused By Something Simple Like A Spark Plug Malfunction, Which Got Worse During The Time That The Check Engine Light Was On? I Was Planning To Replace My Front Brakes Myself This Weekend Anyway So That It Could Pass The State Inspection. If Changing Out The Plugs And Wires Might Solve The Problem I Might Want To Give It A Try.
2) Is $800 To $1200 A Reasonable Amount To Charge For Rebuilding The Top Half Of An Engine? The Price May Or May Not Include Replacing The Timing Belt, Which I Think Should Be Right In The Area Anyway. The Belt Was Replaced 20,000 Miles Ago, But The Engine Has Been Leaking Oil For A While So There'S A Decent Chance It'S Been Splashed And Weakened.
3) Do Spark Plugs And Wires Normally Get Changed Out In A Rebuild Like This? I Imagine They Would Be Unless The Customer Asked, But I'M No Mechanic.
I Really Appreciate The Time You Guys On This Side Of Yahoo Answers Put In. Thanks For Reading Through My Questions.
When they do a compression check, they remove the spark plugs and check the compression that each piston is putting out. So, the plugs are not installed at the time.
Check around various other places for cost of rebuilding the top half, and also, maybe try another shop to get their diagnosis. I do not know what average cost would be. That price quoted would be about 10 to 14 hours labor, at $85 an hour avg. Plus the cost of gaskets, parts, etc. Best Ten Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory
Spark plugs should probably be changed out for new ones, during a rebuild. Wires, depends on how good they are now. Four good plugs run you about $10 or so. And depending on how old and worn the other parts are, like the water pump, it might be a good idea to replace it, if it is original.
But get a second opinion on repairs, unless it is too costly to do so. I know they charge for these diagnoses. Most Popular Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory
Standard Industrial Classification Code Most Popular Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory?
What Is An Automotive Repair Sic Code?
811111 General Automotive Repair
"This U.S. industry comprises establishments primarily engaged in providing (1) a wide range of mechanical and electrical repair and maintenance services for automotive vehicles, such as passenger cars, trucks, and vans, and all trailers or (2) engine repair and replacement." Most Popular Car Dent Repair in Show Low Directory
Do Auto Mechanics Often Have Health Problems Later In Life?
I Always Notice On The Oil Bottles When I Change My Oil About How Contact Of Oil With The Skin Has Been Tied To Some Kinds Of Cancer, Or Something Like That. Isn'T All The Grease, Brake Dust (Asbestos), Gasoline, Antifreeze, Freon, And Oil, Hazardous? Well, I Know It Is. I Guess It'S Okay If You Work On Your Own Car From Time To Time And You'Re Careful, But What About The Mechanics That Work On Cars All Day, Everyday, Their Entire Lives - Black Fingers Their Whole Life. This Is Constant Exposure. Even Though They'Re Careful And Don'T Drink The Antifreeze, They Are Exposed To It At Some Small Level - For A Prolonged Period Of Time. Your Skin Can Absorb This Stuff.
Auto mechanics are exposed to lots of nasty things during their careers.
The least of which is oil. Oil can stain your skin over a long period of
time, but probably wouldn't cause cancer. Exposure to antifreeze is
dangerous if you ingest/inhale large quantities quickly. This is because
of the ethylene glycol used to make the antifreeze. Ethylene glycol is
poisonous to humans. However, it isn't an accumulated affect. In small
amounts, the liver and kidneys can clean the toxin from the body...it's
large amounts at once that over load your system and cause renal
failure. That's when you organs start shutting down and you die. Another
thing that is dangerous for auto mechanics is asbestos. It is found in
brake pads and some other parts of the engine. Asbestos is a fiber that
when inhaled can damage the lungs, and over a period of time can cause a
specific type of cancer called mesothelioma. Gasoline is dangerous when
inhaled..and it is a accumulated problem. Prolonged exposure to fumes
will kill brain cells and be a cause of strokes.
All in all, there really shouldn't be a problem...more so than any other
occupation. My grandfather was a mechanic for 50 years almost and he's
still kicking around if not in great health..atleast decent.
1991 Toyota 4Runner Engine Mis-Fire?
I Just Bought A Truck And I Didnt Notice At The Time It Was Mis-Firing When In Idle/Park. Anyway, I Doubt Its Going To Pass Emissions Due To This Problem. There Is Some Smoke Coming Out Of The Exhaust. I Changed The Oil To See If It Had A Mix Of Coolent In It, But No. It Was Black. It Doesnt Seem To Overheat Either. I Checked And It Was Pretty Full Of Coolent, So It Doesnt Look Like Its Leaking. Maybe A Little. With All That It Doesnt Appear To Be A Head Gasket.
I Changed The Spark Plug Wires Also, But No Change. I Guess I Could Change The Spark Plugs Too. What Else Can Cause Misfires Like This??
I Was Told It Could Be A Bad Valve. I Highly Doubt It Sense This Is A Newer Motor/Rebuilt. Not Sure What One. Anyway It Only Has Less Than 20K On This Motor. So I Dont Think Its A Bad Valve. Any Idea??? Please Help.
Should change the spark plugs to eliminate those parts. Other than a timing issue or valve problem, a bad fuel injector could also cause a misfire.
Acceleration Problems With My 1992 Toyota Camry? ?
I Have A 1992 Toyota Camry Xle V6 3.0 L And Me And My Father Just Replaced The Head Due To Bent Valve And Ever Since We Put It Back Together There Has Been Acceleration Problems. When The Engine Is Cooled Down The Acceleration Is Terrible. The Harder I Push The Gas Pedal Has No Effect On The Acceleration And It Feels Like The Acceleration Is Lacking Really Bad. But As The Car Gets Hotter The Acceleration Gets Better. It Makes No Sense. We Just Replaced The Head And All The Gaskets And Did A Tune Up. If Anyone Can Give Me Some Input It Would Be Greatly Appreciated. Thank You
its probably a vacuum leak. I'd look at the vacuum lines that were taken off and make sure there arent cracks in the lines...I had a brake booster problem and it was due to me putting a vacuum line on backwards. it must have kinked the line so make sure that the vacuum line you put back on isnt backwords.
1999 Toyota Camry Cracked Cylinder Gasket? Can Someone Help Us Out?
My Dad Was Selling His 1999 Toyota Camry With About 110,Xxx Miles On It, And The Buyer Requested To Have The Car Inspected At A Mechanic Store (A Chain Store) Nearby. Our Whole Family Has Driven The Car For The Past 5 Years With No Problems, Oils And Other Necessities Are Regularly Changed. The Day Before The Inspection, The Buyer Test Drove The Car With My Dad, And Everything Turned Out Okay. The Day Of The Inspection, The Mechanic Gave A Green Report Noting Minor Things Such As Tires. The Buyer Requested That The Guy From The Mechanic To Have A Test Drive. The Mechanic Drove It For A Mile, And When He Returned, There'S Smoke Coming Out Of The Car, And When They Opened The Hood, There'S Oil Coming Out Of The Engine. We Took It To Another Mechanic To Figure Out What Happened, And Was Told That The Cylinder Head Gasket Is Blown, And The Engine Needs To Be Replaced. The Mechanic Is Not Wiling To Take Any Responsibility And Argues The Car Had A Flawed Internal Design. Right Now I'M Wondering What Are The Odds Of Getting A Blown Engine During The 1 Mile Test Drive By The Mechanic, After Having A Positive Pre-Sale Inspection From The Same Mechanic, If It'S An Internal Flaw. And Also If It Was Triggered By The Mechanic, Could He Have Over-Accelerated Or Done Something Crazy To Blow The Engine? Any Info Or Tips Are Appreciated Since We Have Minimal Knowledge Of Cars.
i stopped reading less than half way through.
likely the head gasket was marginal. and the mechanic pushed it too hard. not necessarily too hard for the vehicle/engine, but too hard for a gasket that was marginal already. the gasket went by by.
who gets the blame for that, i can't comment. mechanically speaking, it's a crap shoot as when it was going to go or who would be driving it when it did.
just know, you did verbally authorize a "test" drive by that mechanic. unless you have witnesses that heard you state any conditions, i think you're outta luck.
but it hardly seems like the engine is "blown". that is totally destroyed.
head gasket change and check the head for deck level. if the heads deck is good, *likely* the block deck is good as well. not definitive though.
you just don't know. the gasket could have easily up and failed driving from the testing.testing, or the next day. when ever. you just can never really know.
Unusual Car Overheating?
Hello, I Have A 1996 Toyota Camry 2.2L 4 Cyl. The Car Overheats To Put It Simply, But The Unusual Part Is That It Overheats Intermittently. I Have Taken It To The Shop And They Said The System Wasnt Holding Pressure That The Groove Where The Radiator Cap Sits Is Bad And Pressure Is Leaking From There. So I Had Replaced The Radiator, Cap, And Cts, Along With Fresh Coolant. The Problem Seemed Fixed For A Week But Then It Overheated Again. Coolant All Over The Top Down To Bottom And On The Inner Side Of Fan Shroud, Im Guessing The Coolant Had Leaked From The Hose Going From Radiator To The Reservoir. But No Cracks In Hoses. So I Checked The Hose Clamp Holding The Hose On To The Radiator And It Has Two Clamps Which Are Very Weak, I Can Compress Them Using My Thumb And Index Finger. Could That Be The Problem? Not Alot Of Coolant Had Leaked Yet Because By The Time The Car Had Reached Redline In Temp It Was Already Home And Was Shut Off Immediately. Could The Thermostat Be A Problem? Intermittently Sticking Closed? Upper And Lower Hoses Both Feel About Equally Hot When Car Is Fully Warmed Up. Also The Heater Doesnt Work Well. It Takes A Very Long Time To Get Hot. I Mean I Understand That Coolant Has To Get Hot First But It Takes Almost 10 Min Till Warm Air Starts Coming In, This Heater Test Was Done At Idle Only. Also Checked Heater Hoses Both Hot Now Im Trying To Recreat The Problem To Get A Better Understanding Of What Is Going On But I Cannot Recreat It, It Wont Overheat Again.
is the pump (fan) definitely being turned by the belt and it's not slipping? As someone else said, it could be a bad thermostat too, which isn't allowing the coolant to flow throughout the engine. My biggest question would be- is it overheating in stop-go traffic or on the highway? If stop-go....I'd check to see if the electric cooling fan (it is an electric right?) is actually being engaged. There should be a thermostat that triggers the cooling fan to engage. If it doesn't, and you're not moving at 30 mph or more, the coolant can't cool off.
If it's none of those things......overheating is usually a blown head gasket. The exhaust gases get into the coolant....and heat it up. That's a catastrophic type thing.
Carborator On An 1986 Ford Bronco, Straight 6?
My Carborator Is Making A Spitting Noise When Its Idoling...Kinda Like It Putting, Its Hard To Explain....Any Suggestions Of What It Might Be?
Does it run badly also? the noise you describe could be from a crossed plug wire, carbon arced distributor cap, bad head gasket between 2 cylinders, or burned or sticky intake valve, if it is a fairly loud "popping" sound.
a vacuum gage will tell about that: it the needle will "jerk around" when the "pop" occurs.
If it is a more "spitting" sound it could be a clogged jet in the carb, or a worn venturi, or a float level too high.
This would mean rebuliding or replacoing the carb.