Collision Repair in Taylor

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What To Know About Auto Repair It could be a very stressful situation when worrying about what company to choose

Collision Repair in Taylor Directory
for your auto repair, but so long as you know how to go about the method it could be rather easy. Every company will claim they may have the ideal mechanics and provide the smallest prices, but clearly that may be not the case. The simplest way to know that you are getting the best repair for your lowest price is usually to make time to do your research. The first task to finding the right clients are to consider the reviews which were left by previous customers. Chances are that you have more mechanics in your area than you can count. It can be hard to pick out which companies to even compare with others. Locate a site which gives the method to see their reviews in a general star level. Following that you must be able to find the top 10 companies in the area. Then you should take the time to read the reviews that have been left by their past clients. Realize that there definitely will be negative reviews, no matter how good the organization is, however the vast majority needs to be positive. Search for negative reviews that share the identical issues, like having to bring their vehicle back a short length of time since it actually had not been yet fixed. Any shop should e capable to diagnose and correct a vehicle the first time. From your initial set of 10 you should be able to narrow it to 3 different companies that are the top. You can then call each and ask when they are willing to give you an insurance quote free of cost. When they have made your top three list they will be more than willing to achieve this. That method for you to determine what they presume to be the situation in addition to whatever they think it is going to cost. When you have quotes coming from all 3 then you can decide who to utilize. It might be tempting to choose simply depending on the cost, so how they treat you need to be considered. Customer service is very important when it comes to auto repair. When they are willing to explain everything to you and reveal to you which they feel that you may have value they then are truly considering obtaining your company and keeping it. Consider every aspect of your interaction before making a choice about which mechanic you believe is advisable to service your car. Every auto mechanic will claim they have the very best costs, from parts to service, but the fact is that they can all differ often. Collision Repair in Taylor Directory Make time to investigate how others have felt with regards to their service, what their pricing is and just how you personally felt once you visited their shop. This can be the best way to look for a quality auto repair center that may meet your needs and expectations.

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FAQ's Auto Repair

Could There Be More Problems With This Ford Bronco Best Ten Collision Repair in Taylor Directory?
Tomorrow I Am Going To Look At A 1989 Ford Bronco That A Guy Was Advertising On Craigslist. I Called Him And He Told Me That The Only Problems It Has Are A Mistimed Ignition And It Needs A Couple Freeze Plugs Replaced. Basically I Need To Know If It Could Possibly Have Worse Problems That He Is Trying To Pass Off As These Less Serious Ones. What Should I Look For?

Yes, very well have more problems, with ign off as he claims could use this to hid compression problems and timing chain issues, freeze plugs could hide head gaskets or other things that make it overheat. But he could be shooting straight, most times people selling cars don't. 10 Best Collision Repair in Taylor Directory

How Do You Figure The Cubic Inches Of My Engine?
Ok I Have A Ford 460 In My 79 Bronco But Its Built Pretty Good And After A Recent Head Gasket Replacement I Checked The Bore And It Turns Out Its Bored 30 Over So What Does That Make My Cubic Inches Top Ten Collision Repair in Taylor Directory?

that's why the online calculators are so nice..

Volume equals pie times the Radius squared times the stroke times the number of cylinders equals 467 rounded off. Top Ten Collision Repair in Taylor Directory

that's using 0.030" over

Ford Contour 99, Runs Very Bad. 10 Best Collision Repair in Taylor Directory?
I Have A Ford Contour 99, I Did Replace The Timing Belt, Idler Pulley, And Timing Adjuster. Now After That It Run A Little Rough, So I Decided To Use For Some Time, Now Is Worse, I Did Re-Set Timing Following Ford Instructions, 1 And 4 Cylinder At Tdc, Cams Aligned With Flat Steel Tool, Cam Sprockets Loose, Timing Belt Tight All The Way Around, Re- Started And Runs Very Bad, Shakes, Misses, All Kinds Of Things. No Smoke At Tailpipe, Then I Checked The Compression, It Was Very Low, Almost Cero.. My Question Is: Can My Timing Be Off To Not Having Any Compression At All≫? Or Could I Have A Burned Valve, Or A Piston/Valve Collision, (Acording To Ford,Is Not An Interference Engine,[2.0 Liter] ) Any Suggestions≫?, I Almost Throwing My Towel, And Don'T Know What Can Be The Problem.. Did Replace Sparks, Coil, Sparks Cables, Checked My Injectors, No Vacuum Leaks, Thank You For Any Good Help.

A stock Zetec is non-interference unless it's a SVT or has been modified (high lift cam). If the timing is way off, then you won't have compression, but it sounds like you are doing it right from what I can gather. However, in some cases non-interference engines can get bent values due to carbon buildup on top of the cylinders, especially in the valve reliefs (reduces valve clearance). There are some rare cases of this occurring with the Zetec.

To test the valves, you can do a leak down test on the cylinders. Basically you shoot compressed air in through the spark plug and see if the pressure in the cylinder drops. In your case, if you have bent valves you should be able to hear a decent "hiss" in the intake or exhaust. You can also try testing the compression with the timing belt off and both valves closed (rotate camshafts). Best Ten Collision Repair in Taylor Directory

Burnt valves are also a possibility, but you would have noticed this before the belt change. It is also unlikely all four would be burnt and giving zero compression.

Just to be sure, cylinder #1 is the one closest to the timing belt. Also, did you double check your plug wiring? Try to be as precise as possible with TDC in #1, otherwise you could be a tooth or two off.

You said no vacuum leaks, but did you check the EGR, IAC, and MAF? These can all cause roughness.

If all else fails, you can pull the head and see what it looks like inside. Might as well replace the head gasket (order after you see the condition of the valves).

Here is another how to, maybe a different source will help: http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread...

Hope you can figure it out! Most Popular Collision Repair in Taylor Directory

Car Issues...Blown Head Gasket And Antifreeze Leak 10 Best Collision Repair in Taylor Directory?
I Have A 1997 Ford Contour Gl With Almost 112Kmi. Last Week When I Was Driving The Car At 55 Mph The Car Started Lurching Forward...Kind Of Like How It Feels When You Just Tap On The Accelerator And It Jumps Forward. I Pulled Over And Turned The Car Off To Check For Leaks And A Flat Tire, Nothing Happened. Went To Turn The Car Back On (Worked) And Started Driving Home...Which Was About Half A Mile. As Soon As I Started Driving (20 Mph) The Front Of The Car Started To Shake Really Bad (Is Not The Alignment), Made Groaning And Whaling Noises, And Would Not Accelerate Above 25 Mph. When I Finally Made It Home I Turned Off The Engine, Went To Call My Mechanic, And He Told Me To Turn It Back On But It Wouldn'T Start. I Have To Wait Two More Days Until I Can Get The Car Looked At But In The Mean Time I Tried To Jump Start The Car To See If It Would Start. It Took About 3 Tries And Then Just Letting The Car Charge From My Moms Car And It Finally Worked. Now The Car'S Exhaust Is Spewing White And The Antifreeze Is Brown/Rusted But Not Too Low. It'S Also Idling Really Rough And Over Heats Within A Minute. I Have Never Missed An Oil Change, So That Isn'T The Issue. I Also Have An Over Heating Issue And My Temp Gauge Isn'T Registering It (I Think That'S Just Broken). I Just Want To Know If Anyone Else Has Had This Issue Or Knows What It Could Be. I'Ve Been Told It May Be A Blow Gasket And An Antifreeze Leak Into The Oil. Wanted Some Opinions Before It Gets Looked At In 2 Days. I'M Trying To Figure Out If It Is Too Bad A Fix And If I Should Just Get A New Car. Please Do Not Answer This If You Have No Intention On Giving Me Advise For What May Be Wrong With The Car.

yes sounds like the head gasket but also could be the intaake manifold gasket and my advise is to buy a new car Most Popular Collision Repair in Taylor Directory

What Should I Do With My Car 10 Best Collision Repair in Taylor Directory?
I Asked A Question Not Too Long Ago About My 1997 Ford Aspire With 121K Miles, Which Had A Misfire In One Of Its Cylinders When I Bought It. Now I'Ve Got Several More Questions. Here'S The Story: I Took It To A Reputable Repair Shop And Had It Diagnosed The Other Day As A Pretty Serious Problem, Which Was Most Likely A Malfunctioning Valve, Though They Would Have To Take Apart The Cylinder Head To Confirm That. They Based Their Evaluation On The Fact That The 3 Healthy Cylinders Were Putting Out 170 Pounds Of Pressure While The Other Was Putting Out 80 Pounds. When I Talked To Other Mechanics They Said They Would Expect A Valve Problem Too With Those Numbers. I Have An Appointment Set For Monday Morning To Get The Cylinder Head Taken Off So That The Mechanics Can Find Out What The Problem Is Exactly. The Previous Owner Knew For Some Time That The Misfire Existed, But He Assumed That It Was Because Of The Spark Plugs, Which Are Pretty Worn. After I Bought The Car And Drove It Around A Bit, But Before I Took It To The Mechanic, The Check Engine Light Came On And Remained On Until Earlier Today When It Shut Off. Here Are My Questions: 1) Is There Any Real Chance That The Compression Differentials That The Mechanic Observed Were Caused By Something Simple Like A Spark Plug Malfunction, Which Got Worse During The Time That The Check Engine Light Was On? I Was Planning To Replace My Front Brakes Myself This Weekend Anyway So That It Could Pass The State Inspection. If Changing Out The Plugs And Wires Might Solve The Problem I Might Want To Give It A Try. 2) Is $800 To $1200 A Reasonable Amount To Charge For Rebuilding The Top Half Of An Engine? The Price May Or May Not Include Replacing The Timing Belt, Which I Think Should Be Right In The Area Anyway. The Belt Was Replaced 20,000 Miles Ago, But The Engine Has Been Leaking Oil For A While So There'S A Decent Chance It'S Been Splashed And Weakened. 3) Do Spark Plugs And Wires Normally Get Changed Out In A Rebuild Like This? I Imagine They Would Be Unless The Customer Asked, But I'M No Mechanic. I Really Appreciate The Time You Guys On This Side Of Yahoo Answers Put In. Thanks For Reading Through My Questions.

When they do a compression check, they remove the spark plugs and check the compression that each piston is putting out. So, the plugs are not installed at the time.

Check around various other places for cost of rebuilding the top half, and also, maybe try another shop to get their diagnosis. I do not know what average cost would be. That price quoted would be about 10 to 14 hours labor, at $85 an hour avg. Plus the cost of gaskets, parts, etc. Most Popular Collision Repair in Taylor Directory

Spark plugs should probably be changed out for new ones, during a rebuild. Wires, depends on how good they are now. Four good plugs run you about $10 or so. And depending on how old and worn the other parts are, like the water pump, it might be a good idea to replace it, if it is original.

But get a second opinion on repairs, unless it is too costly to do so. I know they charge for these diagnoses. Best Ten Collision Repair in Taylor Directory

Standard Industrial Classification Code 10 Best Collision Repair in Taylor Directory?
What Is An Automotive Repair Sic Code?

811111 General Automotive Repair
"This U.S. industry comprises establishments primarily engaged in providing (1) a wide range of mechanical and electrical repair and maintenance services for automotive vehicles, such as passenger cars, trucks, and vans, and all trailers or (2) engine repair and replacement." Best Ten Collision Repair in Taylor Directory

http://www.naics.com/censusfiles/ND81111...

I Have A 1993 Toyota 4Runner And The Hoeses On The Radiator Build Pressure?
The Hoses Build So Much Pressure That They Blow Off I Asked About This Earlyer But For Got To Say That The Hoses Blow Off Because Of The Pressure What Could Be The Reason For This

Head Gasket is probabley the most probabe cause.
I have seen them go before and they pump Exhaust into the coolent causing alot of PSI blowing hoses and cracking radiators.

Insurance Regulations - Auto Collision Repair?
I Am Trying To Have Some Front End Damage Repaired On My 03 Corolla. I Have A $500 Dollar Deductible And The Estimate Is For A Little Over $900. I Have A Friend Who Has The Knowledge And Ability To Repair The Auto (12 Years In The Industry) And He Is Willing To Do The Repairs Without Me Paying The Deductible. What Can I Expect From The Insurance Company. Will They Allow Him To Do It? Will They Accept Aftermarket Parts? What Type Of Final Inspection Will They Require? Will I Be Able To Accomplish This Utililzing My Friend. I Have No Doubt He Can Do A Satisfactory Job But Will The Insurance Company Work With Me. I Know The Rules Probably Vary From Company To Company But Any General Advice On How To Approach Them Or What To Expect Will Be Appreciated.

If the estimate is for 900$ and you have a 500$ deductible, the insurance check is only going to be around 400$. For that kind of money, the insurance company isn't going to care if you get the car repaired or not. They are only to pay for the loss. If your friend can do it for 400$ let him. And if the car is paid for, the insurance company will make the check out directly to you. They CANNOT tell you where to take the car to have the repairs done or what parts to use. This is called steering work and it is illegal. If they tell you they won't guarantee the parts or labor, tell them to shove it because it's not their place to do that.

Why Is My Car Still Overheating?!?
Ok I Have A 1993 Toyota Camry V6 Xle Automatic The Problem Is I Have Overheating Problems With It And I Still Cant Find The Problem Why? - Ive Replaced My Car With A Whole New Radiator After I Found A Crack On Top Of My Old One. - I Replaced A Whole New Thermostat To It Too ( Its A Failsafe One) And Some People Are Telling Me I Dont Need It Because I Live In Central California And Its Not Necessary Because Its Summer Time Ususally Needed For Winter Time. Basically Theyre Telling Me It S An Option To Have The Thermostat Or Not.And They Also Said That Its Just Blocking The Water From Flowing Right. But When I Stopped By Autozone One Of The Workers Told Me Its A Mandatory Piece To Have For My Car Because Thats Whats Going To Prevent It From Overheating And Its What Keeps The Flow Of The Water Going.So Whats The Proper Way Of Installing That? - Ive Replaced Oil Filter..My Spark Plugs..Better Gas Lol. - Also My Car Kinda Jerks When Im Accelerating It And My Gears Are Shifting Wrong And Slow. Sometimes When Im At A Stoplight My Car Starts To Shake Seeming Like It Dont Know What To Choose To Which Gear To Stay At Cuz You Can Clearly See It Going Back And Fourth From First To Second And Once It Has Done That Itll Just Completely Shut Off The I Have To Put It In Park And Turn It Back On As If It Were A Stick Shift Lol Idk,... - Can It Be My Timing That Can Cause My Overheating? - Do You Know Where Exactly Are My Head Gaskets On Top And Under My Car? Do I Have To Remove Any Parts Do Get To The Head Gaskets? Thanks And Let Me Know What You Think Is Wrong With My Car I Need Help Asap!! :) Thanks

It sounds like a fuel delivery problem.

The jerking while accelerating and high temp might be caused by a clogged fuel filter. This will cause a lean condition, and running lean is a dangerous condition for your engine. This will cause high NOx gases to form due to high combustion temp.

Have your fuel pressure tested at the fuel rail, and on the intake side if a new fuel filter doesn't work. You might need a new fuel pump as well.

How Much Would This Car Repair Cost?
Recently Got Into An Accident And My Insurance Company Says That It Is Probably A Total Loss Based On The Photos I Sent Them. Ill Find Out In A Few Days Once It'S Looked At But I'M Just Wondering People'S Opinions/Experiences On How Much It Would Cost If They Say Its Not Totaled. My Drivers Side Headlight Is Smashed In And All Around It As Well. The Drivers Side On The Right In Front Of The Door (Fender? Idk Stuff About Cars Lol) Is Dented As Well, Making It So That I Can Only Open The Door Part Way. It'S Not Pretty. Still Drivable And Works. Thanks For Any Advice!

It really doesn't take much to total a Neon! A car is determined to be totaled when the cost to repair exceeds (usually) 80% of it's value. With the high cost of body work now, a small fender bender can do that!

I bought my daughter a salvage (totaled) 2000 Neon in 2003 for $600. I repaired it and painted it as well for another $600. There wasn't enough damage for the state to "brand" the title as salvaged by the inspector, so it carries a clean title.

In 2011, she was rear ended by a Lexus, and once again the insurance wanted to total the car. I helped her fight that, got around a $1600 settlement, and I put a new bumper re bar and a used bumper cover on it, and also had to pull the trunk panel about an inch or two, and once again she is still riding! Only paint work was the bumper cover. Total repair cost was less than $100!

If YOU caused the accident, it will be more difficult to negotiate with your own insurance company, but it can be done. Get some quotes from some independent shops if you want to fight with them.

If you show you can have the repairs done at less than 80% to 90% of the book value, you may get to keep it.

White Smoke Coming From Tail Pipe.?
Ok White Smoke Coming From My Car. There Is No Over Heating And All Of The Fluid Levels Look To Be Good. I Checked The Oil And It Looks Very Much Normal, No Chocolate Milky Look Like I Have Been Told To Look For In Case It May Be A Head Gasket. There Is A Possibility That I Put Some Bad Gas In It (Water Logged Or Stihl) From My Gas Tank That I Have Outside But The Car Has Been Doing This For 5 Days Now And Have Put 20 Dollars Of Gas In It In Which I Think It Would Have Already Filtered Out By Now. There Is One Possible Other Explanation And That Is I Haven'T Changed My Oil In A Pretty Good While And It May Be That Smoking But It Doesn'T Look Bluish Color Like Oil Should Look When It Burns. The Smoking Mostly Occurs During Initial Start Up And Lasts 30 Seconds At Most. It Is Alot Of Smoke At First But Dies Down Completely After 30 Or So Seconds. Periodically Through Out The Day There Is Absolutely No Smoke, Sometimes Alot, And Sometimes In Between. There Is Absolutely No Performance Problems, Every Once In A While There Is A Little Slow Start Up But Its A 1996 Toyota Camry. Was Wondering If You Guys Know What May Be Going On. Any Help Would Be Great.

doesnt sound good to me sounds like water in the gas chambers or where u gas goes, i would have them change the fuel tank

Can A 1963 Impala Coupe With A Base Crate 350 And A 350 Transmission Beat 0-60 In 8 Seconds?
If So Whats A Rough Estimate Of Its 0-60 Times? Would It Be Tough Competition For Rice Rocket 4 Cylinder Cars With Fwd?

MAYBE on your under 8 seconds 0-60. Depends mostly on rear gear, tires and traction. It won't be much competition for anything newer though


Also depends on what "base" crate engine your talking about
10067353 195 HP $1500 goodwrench that use to be sold as a "260" HP engine, which it will make 260 HP with a alum high raise dual plane intake, 600-670 cfm 4bbl, headers, etc.
12499529 290 HP $2000

The '63 Impala is no featherweight. It tips the scales at around 3700 lbs

3700 LBS plus say a 175 lbs driver with a 260 HP net rated engine, with no tire spin will put you in the 15.0's @ 89 mph in the 1/4 mile

With 3.73 gears, drag radial tires, slapper bars, etc It could pull off around a 6.8 to 7.4 0-60 mph time

That's about the 1/4 mile times of the stock mid to late 80's camaros and mustangs

Just to give you some info on other cars times..

1994 Acura Integra LS 0-60 mph 7.5 Quarter mile 15.8
2002 Acura 3.2TL Type S 0-60 mph 6.1 Quarter mile 14.6
1996 Chevrolet Cavalier LS 0-60 mph 8.2 Quarter mile 15.9
2005 Chevrolet Cobalt SS Supercharged 0-60 mph 6.0 Quarter mile 14.2
2005 Chevy Cobalt LS Sedan (Auto) 0-60 mph 8.3 Quarter mile 16.4
1999 Honda Accord Coupe LX (V6) 0-60 mph 7.3 Quarter mile 15.6
2004 Honda Accord EX Coupe (V6 Manual) 0-60 mph 5.8 Quarter mile 14.3
1999 Honda Civic Si 0-60 mph 7.1 Quarter mile 15.5
2006 Honda Civic Si 0-60 mph 6.6 Quarter mile 14.9
1999 Honda Prelude 0-60 mph 6.7 Quarter mile 15.2
1993 Mazda RX-7 0-60 mph 5.4 Quarter mile 13.8
2002 Mazda RX-8 0-60 mph 6.3 Quarter mile 14.8
2005 Toyota 4 Runner 0-60 mph 7.1 Quarter mile 15.5
1997 Toyota Camry CE (V6) 0-60 mph 6.9 Quarter mile 15.3


For that weight car, you need more power to go faster. Cool thing is with a chevy 350, HP is cheap and easy. Take that $1500 350, spend $1000 on mods to it and have real close to 400 HP

Set of used vortec heads, fel pro 1094 head gaskets, performer or performer rpm intake, 214/226@.050" or so cam, long tube headers, dual 2.25" pipes, good flowing mufflers, 600 cfm carb, summit $90 HEI dizzy, and your at 375 HP or so.

I just picked up a set of 062 casting vortec heads, edelbrock performer vortec intake, comp cams 1.6 ratio roller tip self alinging rockers and chrome center bolt valve covers for $350 off craigslist today (had to drive 45 miles each way to go get them)

Something like that, with a set of $35 valve springs, $150 cam and lifter set, $75 in gaskets

That swap to vortec heads and a cam like I mentioned would bump compression from 8.5:1 to 9.95:1 and put you around 375 HP,

375 HP with traction in your 3875 lbs total weight impala would put you in the 13.30's @ 101 mph 1/4 mile times.

And that would be low to mid 5 seconds 0-60 mph with traction