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How Much For Kitten Care? Cat/Kitten Owners Answer Please!?
I Want A Kitten But I Don'T Know How Much Everything Costs. I Have Done Loads Of Research And Get Different Results. I Need A Basic List Of Necessities For A Kitten Around 14 Weeks Old That I Want To Get From A Breeder. I Know How Much The Kitten Cost I Just Need To Know What Cat Or Kitten Owners Pay Monthly Or Yearly
Spay (Not Neutered. Getting A Girl). 75$?
Scratching Post 15$?
Litter Box. Simple-5$?
Water And Food Bowls. Couple $ Each?
Toys Around 2$ Each?
Please Help. I Just Need A List Of What Owners Pay Monthly Or Yearly. Thanks!
At 14 weeks the kitten should have already received all of its vaccines with the exception of the rabies vaccine.
When you get your kitten get copies of all its health records. You will bring these along with you when you bring the kitten for its first check-up, preferably scheduled on the way home with it. At that point your vet can look at the kitten's record, administer any vaccine or other treatments needed then, and advise you when to bring it in for its rabies vaccine and its spay surgery.
A basic check-up costs anywhere from $35.00 - $100.00. The average is around $45.00. The cost of any vaccines or other treatments is additional.
The spay surgery will cost about $175.00 at most private veterinary clinics. Some low-cost spay/neuter clinics do it for only $50.00. Some vets with clinics in affluent communities may charge as much as $300.00.
You should probably get a good scratching post and 1 or 2 scratch pads.
A good scratching post is one which is higher than the cat will be able to stretch when full-grown or about 3 feet, cannot be tipped, and is covered in either carpet or with sisal rope. You should shop around online because good ones can be expensive, perhaps $75.00+. Try to find a good one from a discontinued line or at least one which is on sale.
The scratch pads that are made of corrugated cardboard cost only a few dollars or so each.
Get a full size uncovered litter box. A plain one will cost about $20.00
The first litter you buy should be the same brand and type as the kitten was already using. Litter prices vary but it is always cheapest to the the largest size available. Your litter cost will be somewhere between $75.00 and $300.00 yearly.
When you pick up the kitten request a baggy full of soiled litter from the kitten's box. You will put this on top of the litter in the kitten's new box once you get home.
In addition to the litter box you will need a scoop. I also suggest you buy a child's beach sand shovel and bucket set.
Get a litter mat for placing in front of the box. This will help prevent litter from tracking when the kitten exits. These probably cost about $15.00 - or you could repurpose a doormat!
You need a non-tip water bowl and a few small plates. You may already have suitable dishes in your home. Get a place mat for putting under the food plate.
You do not need to spend any money on toys. Kittens can have a blast whacking a bottle cap around the floor!
Do NOT get a collar. They are potentially lethal.
You didn't mention a cat bed - don't get one! If you do the kitten won't sleep in it.
You need to buy good cat food. I would suggest you get canned food only and that you choose a brand which contains no grain products. Feeding a kitten a species-appropriate carnivore diet will cost roughly $10.00 - $15.00 weekly. That amount will decrease to a little less once the cat reaches maturity and is no longer whizzing around like a little demon.
Ask some more questions about choosing an appropriate food for your kitten.
Street Cat Fight Help Me!!?
I Take Care Two Street Cats.
Last Winter I Brought Em Into My Basement.
Release Em A Month Ago.
Suddenly This Big Black Cat Appeared
Keeps Getting Into Fight With My Stray Cats.
One Of Them Got Seriously Injured.(Now Iam Takin Care Of Him At My House)
Tonight Other One Got Attacked By This Black Cat.
Pooped And Peed All Over While Fighting (Maybe Too Scared And Frightened)
I Cannot Let This Black Cat Comes Into My Yard And Keep Attacking My Cats.
Is There Any Solution To This?
** One More Thing Two Cats Were Really Friendly And Take Care Of Each Other When I Brought Em In
But When I Realeased Em They Keep On Fighting Each Other..
Please Help I Need To Stop This Fight≫
And Two Cats I Take Care They Need To Be Like Last Time( When They Take Care Each Others)
Keep them as indoor only cats, separated if they're fighting one another. Also, if the cats are male and haven't been neutered. They will fight like Tomcats due to the fact that they're very territorial. Sounds like they'll require vet care to screen for diseases, vaccinated, and wound care. Assuming they haven't been desexed, I will provide a links to low-cost veterinary care, low-cost spay/neuter clinics, feral cat advocacy group and emergency cat wound care. I hope I helped and that these cats recover from their injuries.
I Want To Become A Veterinarian Because It Is Something I Can Really See Myself Doing. However, Due To A Change In My Major, I Have Not Gotten Any Animal Experience. I Am A Sophomore In College. Would Being A Vet Tech For A Few Years Help Me Get Into Vet School As Far As Animal Experience Goes (Other Than Good Grades And Great Gre Scores)? If So, How Would I Become A Vet Tech?
Most states require that you have a degree in veterinary technology and pass credentialing exams to work as a veterinary technician. This typically is therefore not a good route to go because veterinary technology degree courses don't usually transfer towards a 4 year degree and so only add 2 extra years of schooling and bills. Instead you should apply as a veterinary assistant--this is an entry level position with no special education or training requirements in any state-- at a local veterinary clinic. Be sure to note in your cover letter for your resume that your goal is to go to veterinary school.
Getting hands-on experience in a veterinary facility is very important because it is looked for on applications to the veterinary teaching schools.
What Is Required To Be A Veterinary Assistant?
What Is Required To Be A Veterinary Assistant? Do You Have To Be A Certain Age?
There are no legal requirements for special education or training to work as a veterinary assistant in any state. This is an entry-level position in the veterinary health care team and most clinics train their assistants on the job from scratch. Many times veterinary assistants are high school students or new high school graduates. The only requirement is that you meet your state's mimimum legal age for employment. Veterinary assistant certification is neither legally recognized nor required.
There are however many different companies and schools that offer veterinary assistant certification programs. The value of these programs and the amount of respect they generate in the veterinary community will differ greatly because anyone can offer these types of programs regardless of education, training or experience in the veterinary field. If you consider a veterinary assistant certification program, you need to look for one that is approved by the National Assoc. of Veterinary Technicians in America as these programs at least have some oversight by a professional group related to the field. You should also consider that these programs typically do not count as college credits and will not transfer towards any degree program.
Getting a job as a veterinary assistant is a great way to get into a veterinary facility and get some first-hand experience to see if you want to make a career of working with animals in this sort of setting. In fact, most vet schools and AVMA accredited veterinary technology degree programs require that you have experience as a veterinary assistant in order to apply to their degree programs.
If you are interested in working as a veterinary assistant, apply at local veterinary clinics. You can put together a resume and drop it off regardless of whether or not a clinic is actively hiring.
Post Neutering For Rabbit Questions?
Im Getting My 3 Yr Old Rabbit Neutered Tomorrow, Has Anyone Had This Experience Before, How Was Ur Rabbit When U Bought Him Back Home?
I foster rabbits for a rescue group, so I've had many many rabbits neutered. I've never had one with complications after surgery, it's a very safe operation. Different rabbits react differently to the anesthesia- some will be 'out of it' for a couple days, some are behaving fairly normally when they come home, it will just depend on your specific rabbit. Make sure he has a clean, dry, soft surface to lie on, keep his cage scrupulously clean for a couple weeks while he's healing (I usually clean twice a day for at least a week and a half post-surgery), and make sure he's eating and drinking a normal amount. If he's not drinking well, spraying his favorite veggies, especially the leafy greens, with fresh, cool water will help to keep him hydrated and get him eating well again, too.
How Safe Is Neutering Of Rabbits?
My Two Male Rabbits Are Being Neutered Tommorow And I'M Pretty Scared! They'Re Six Months Old And Brothers. Is The Surgery Pretty Safe, And How Long Approximately Does The Surgery Take? When I Bring Them Home, Will They Be Able To Come Back In One Carrier Or Shall I Take Two?
Spaying and neutering for rabbits has become a safe procedure when performed by experienced rabbit veterinarians. Most vets are because. They have gone through training at colleges. The House Rabbit Society has had over 1000 rabbits spayed or neutered with approximately .1% mortality due to anesthesia. A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter your rabbit with very little risk to a healthy rabbit. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits to spay or neuter your rabbit. So not even 1 out of 1000 rabbits have died when they had the surgery. I am sure your rabbits will be fine! Using isofluorene as the anesthetic and appropriate surgical and after-surgery techniques, spaying and neutering of rabbits is as safe as for any other animal.
I would recommend giving the rabbits some alone time, they won't fight but they want to be on their own for maybe a good week or until you notice both rabbits seem normal. I would recommend 2 carriers.
The surgery might take about 2 hours but may need to be under vet care for a day or two to see if the rabbit is okay.
Ask these questions...
about how many rabbit clients does the veterinarian see in a year?
how many spays/neuters OF RABBITS has the veterinarian has done in the past year?
what was the success rate?
90% success is way too low. Every doctor, whether for animals or humans will occasionally lose a patient; usually because of an undiagnosed problem. veterinarians across the country who spay and neuter rabbits for the House Rabbit Society have lost on average less than 1/2 of 1%.
if any were lost, what was the cause?
does the veterinarian do "open" or "closed" neuters? (closed is preferable--let your veterinarian explain the difference)
is entry to the testicles made through the scrotum or the abdomen? (Entry via the abdomen unnecessarily increases the trauma for male rabbits)
does the veterinarian require withholding of food and water prior to surgery in rabbits? (Do not do this--rabbits can't vomit, so there is no risk of that during surgery, and rabbits should never be allowed to get empty digestive tracts)
what anesthetics are used--some veterinarians are quite successful with anesthetics other than isofluorene, but the bunny is "hung over" after surgery, which increases the probability that s/he will be slow to start eating again, which can lead to serious problems if not dealt with.
Review the procedure (op and immediate post-op) with your vet. Ask how problems will be detected: how often will they (the veterinarian and the techs) look in on your rabbit and what will they look for?. What will they do pre-op to find any potential problems? How will they support your bun in the hours after surgery: Oxygen, warmth, quiet (barking dogs and yowling cats in the next cage are probably not helpful), and stimulation? What are they going to do to make it come out right?! Ask questions! That will get your veterinarian's attention. Let them know you're concerned and that you'll be paying attention.
Most males come home after being neutered looking for "supper"-- be sure they have pellets, water, and some good hay (good, fresh alfalfa is a good way to tempt them to nibble a bit)
The following morning, or at latest by the next evening, it is important for the rabbit to be nibbling something. It doesn't matter what or how much, as long as she is taking in something, so the digestive tract won't shut down. If she isn't, tempt her with everything possible, and as a last resort, make a mush of rabbit pellets (1 part pellets, 2 parts water, run through blender thoroughly, add acidophilus, and feed in pea-sized bits with a feeding syringe through the side of the mouth)
After the surgery, ask your veterinarian for pain medication, especially for a spay. If you choose, continue giving acidophilus until the appetite has returned to normal.
After surgery, keep the environment quiet so the rabbit doesn't startle or panic, don't do anything to encourage acrobatics, but let the rabbit move around at her own pace-- she knows what hurts and what doesn't
Trust me everything is going to be fine! :) You are making a great choice for the rabbits and you!